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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Haas & T. Bubb, 9/22/07. RP: Haas, 11/07.
Page Views: 556 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears. This is 'Off Width Her Head'. This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). Climb the bulge (hand or fist sized cam) and continue to diagonal up and left into an off-width that zig-zags left and right for 60 feet to a good horizontal crack for a good belay stance (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
This is either a TR, a huge runout, or requires large gear. Initially we had nothing larger than 4" with us on what would have been a ground-up, on-sight, while cleaning, FA. so we TR'd to clean some big blocks out of it. It was later lead with some large gear.

Location

This is a wide crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.

Protection

TR from above 'Shady Character' from a set of hand-to-fist-sized cams, or take a few pieces of pro in the 5-8" range and some slings.

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