Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 600 ft
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Page Views: 204 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Should I Lead It?
The answer was "Yes," but it was we re-cleaned it in 1997 while climbing on TR, where some loose flakes could be removed from the wall without risking severe consequences. The climb cleaned up surprisingly nicely, and with some small cams, protects OK. Not like overhead gear, but it is just below the feet at the crux sequence.

Start off on a short slab and climb up and left to reach the base of the flakes and seams. Place some gear and pull up and right into the seams. Funky right-hand sidepulls and underclings make a large reach to a jug (the first of 2) possible, whereupon you can place a small cam and a few so-so nuts, them make another move out from under a small roof into a good left-facing corner. This is a little exciting, but not dangerous if you placed good gear, which is certainly available.

Location

Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I. ?'

Protection

A standard light rack the really should include small cams. I used the 2 smallest Aliens just before the crux, upon which, they were just below my feet.

Photos

- No Photos -
This route is called Home Run. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981. Jul 29, 2008