Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Sunset Wall
|AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft|
|FA:||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|Page Views:||204 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 4, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionShould I Lead It?
The answer was "Yes," but it was we re-cleaned it in 1997 while climbing on TR, where some loose flakes could be removed from the wall without risking severe consequences. The climb cleaned up surprisingly nicely, and with some small cams, protects OK. Not like overhead gear, but it is just below the feet at the crux sequence.
Start off on a short slab and climb up and left to reach the base of the flakes and seams. Place some gear and pull up and right into the seams. Funky right-hand sidepulls and underclings make a large reach to a jug (the first of 2) possible, whereupon you can place a small cam and a few so-so nuts, them make another move out from under a small roof into a good left-facing corner. This is a little exciting, but not dangerous if you placed good gear, which is certainly available.
LocationPerhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I. ?'
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