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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous, 1980 ?Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/22/07?
Page Views: 259 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Location

On the upper tier of the Sunset Wall, a large, left-facing corner juts out to a Westward pointing arete. This feature catches wonderful evening sun. On the right side of this arete, there is a thin crack/seam that ascends up to the arete before terminating into horizontals, which also take gear.

Description

A good pitch with good gear, although small pieces are needed to sew it up.
Climb up the left side of an arete on the upper tier, on the outside edge of a left-facing corner. This is accessed after doing a few pitches of the 'Original Route' or some other approach pitches.
Place small gear from the ground on the crux climbing (5.8) to reach a mellow arete with horizontals and features reminiscent of the upper pitch of The Yellow Spur, Gambit, or Tiger Balm Arete in Eldo... shorter of course, but similar climbing.

To descend, head east back to the corner and rap back to the shelf, ~80 feet.

Protection

A set of RPs and nuts + cams as desired.

Photos

- No Photos -
This is part of Wind Song Dihedral (Original Route in database) Jul 29, 2008