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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Page Views: 559 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The first pitch of this route is, to date, the best pitch on the wall, but of the second and third pitch options, the ones done to date are not quite as good. 2-stars as listed here, but alternate pitches for P2/P3 might make this a 3-star route.

P1, (5.10a, 90'): Climb up the initial hand to fist crack past a small tree and through the overhang (10a). The corner flip-flops and becomes left-facing as the crack gets wider (fists, 5.8) and then wider still (#4 Camalot to OW). CLimb through the OW (5.9) and onto a shelf to belay on huge boulders or gear. Move the belay back on this massive shelf/ledge to the base of the wall for P2.

P2, (5.9, 110'): Climb up the right-most of 2 cracks that leads up into the right-side of a dark brown inset capped by a roof (5.7?). A huge bird-poo stain (white) can be seen in this inset, but you don't climb through it. When you reach a spot below the roof where a right-hand traverse is obvious (perhaps 15 meters up?) traverse right to the side (5.7, use long slings on gear) and into a right-facing corner with good protection. Climb this corner (5.8) to the top and then go up and left to a crack and flake that climbs up under a bulge- this feels like a juggy but sharp hand traverse (5.9) and then once above that, finish to a shelf one of two ways... left up a good crack (5.8) or right past a bulge with a jug and into an off-fingers, overhanging crack (5.10a). Belay on the ledge above.

P3: (moderate, 100' (?length?)) Pick a crack system and continue to a large ledge with large trees and belay.

You can rap a line not far from this route on fixed slings with rings.

Location

No more than a hundred meters down and right (south) of the north end of the West Face of Sunset Rock, there is a block that juts out close to the ground, creating a bulge with a right-facing dihedral on its right side. You will see and hand-to-first crack going up this corner past a bulge about 10 meters up. That is the start to 'Solar Power.'

Protection

A standard light rack of nuts and cams with some longer slings. An optional #4 Camalot will make the top of P1 feel more secure but is not necessary.

Photos

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This route is called Three's a Crowd. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981. Jul 29, 2008