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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous, 1980.
Page Views: 279 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A mellow & moderate route that is better than it looks from the ground. Perhaps 5.5 or 5.6 in grade, and pretty well-protected.
Climb up from the ground into the left-facing corner and past an old angle piton. The climbing is pretty solid and far better than it appears to be from the ground. The good holds are solid and clean. Continue upward and tending right onto additional cracks for 1/2 a rope length and belay, or continue up and right past a tree with ledges, and then right 6-8 meters on a ledge to good, right-leaning cracks with good locks and jams up to a second, large shelf.
From there, we wandered far right to a pretty, knife-blade arete to finish instead of one of several obvious and mellow finishes directly ahead. We called the finish the 'Sunset Arete (5.8).'

Ergo, we did not do what we presume to be one of the various possibilities for the original 3rd pitch of the original route.

Location

Not too far right of Center on Sunset Wall, and just right of the massive overhang a the wall's mid-height, a broken, left-facing corner rises from the ground. A small amount of vegetation in or near it helps to obscure an old angle piton perhaps 5 meters up. Start here, perhaps 150 feet uphill of the "2 pins" area.

Protection

A standard light rack should do. You can link the first 2 pitches with a long rope. If finishing on 'Sunset Arete' then take some thin gear.

Photos

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This route is called Wind Song Dihedral. FA: Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous 1980. Jul 29, 2008