Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Sunset Wall
|AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|Page Views:||197 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 5, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionNot a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
This is a pretty good climb with some off-balance climbing and cruxes. The climb continuously leans to the right and many of the holds are off-angle.
Climb up a few feet to reach the bottom and left of 2 parallel cracks, place gear and make a few awkward moves up to clip the first of 2 pins. Move out and right on balancy moves and clip a second pin (crux) and continue to the top on more trad gear.
To descend, go back North on the ledge for 10 meters to a rap tree with a sling and a locking biner anchor and rap 65' to the ground.
LocationPerhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I.?'
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