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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Page Views: 197 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
This is a pretty good climb with some off-balance climbing and cruxes. The climb continuously leans to the right and many of the holds are off-angle.
Climb up a few feet to reach the bottom and left of 2 parallel cracks, place gear and make a few awkward moves up to clip the first of 2 pins. Move out and right on balancy moves and clip a second pin (crux) and continue to the top on more trad gear.
To descend, go back North on the ledge for 10 meters to a rap tree with a sling and a locking biner anchor and rap 65' to the ground.

Location

Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I.?'

Protection

A light rack to 2", plus 2 fixed pins, a good Lost Arrow, and a good angle.

Photos

- No Photos -
This route is called Fine Line. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981. Jul 29, 2008