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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 10/4/07.
Page Views: 177 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up onto a system of stacked flakes a few feet left of the left-facing corner. Traverse up and right on this to access the corner and sink good gear. Continue up this low-angle corner on good feet and good grips, but less and less frequent protection, as the crack in the corner bottoms out. Perhaps tricams would have been better here than standard cams, which did not fit the shallow profile placements available.
The runout is on easy climbing, perhaps 5.3(?).
Finish up at a large tree and belay. Rap as for 'SILI?' and the '2 Pins' area.

Location

Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I.?'

'Solar Flare' is the next left-facing corner Right of '2 Pins Right' and 'SILI?' The upper corner is pretty low angle, and is very solid rock.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3" and take tricams in whatever sizes you have. The large flake that starts the rock was avoided on the ground-up FA, but tested hard by the second and found to be immobile. I guess I'd be shy to place a cam behind it, but I'd climb on it. If you don't, the climb will be harder than 5.6.

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