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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/07.
Page Views: 194 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears ('Off Width Her Head'). This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). From that point, a thin crack rises more directly upward. Climb the bulge (fist sized cam) and continue up the thin crack (small nuts and RPs) to a horizontal crack and a stance where you can build a belay on large cams (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).

Location

This is a thin crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.

Protection

A lot of small nuts, and a light rack of cams.
The main cracks are mostly thin gear and require some skill to protect.

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