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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A so-so climb with a lot of lichen and dirt. The pine-needle top-out on the rounded ledge up top is the worst part. If it were to be cleaned, it might be 1 star, but it seemed unworthy of the effort, so it has been left.

Climb up the left-most of the 3 cracks to gain the crack system, then bump one crack right to climb the center crack, alternating left or right as desired.
The climbing is so-so at best.

Location

Perhaps 20 meters right of the "2 Pins" area, there is a set of right-leaning cracks ascending to a large pine from the ground. The third, (right-most) of these does not reach the ground.
This set of cracks is Sun Down.

Protection

A standard rack to 2.5" Expect some challenge finding the best pieces, but the climb is safe.
Belay from large trees at the top.
Rap from the tree above the "2 Pins" area.

Photos

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This route is called Insane. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981. Jul 29, 2008