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Routes in Sunset Wall

AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dennis Smith, Steve Spaar, David Kozack, 1981
Page Views: 450 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a pitch reminiscent of P1/P2 of 'Over The Hill' in Eldo. A bit of excitement in overhanging flakes leads to good jugs and jams before hitting the real treat- a perfect corner with perfect rock- stemming and edging to the top. Once in the corner, good holds appear after every set of moves of any difficulty, so the climb does not feel sustained- just punk in some pro, make a move, then take a good stance and plunk in some more. The good stances are god-sends, because some of the gear is quite small and requires some effort...but you can load it up!

P1. (Indistinct) Start by ascending up a little slab down and left of a nice perch- fight past a shrub and onto the perch. Stack your rope and rack up here.

P2. (Distinct) Go up and left off of the belay perch into some overhanging flakes. The climbing here is moderate but also delicate. Be aware. Place some OK gear (small cams and small nuts- some in horizontals), and step up and right on stems to REACH for a total jug... then place gear in the thin-hands crack that outlines the small roof just above that point. Get a jam, and pull up into the good corner.

Climb the corner (SWEET!) to the top, where up and North there is a rope and ring belay/rap station on a good tree.

If this line did not have the engaging roof down low with the nervous moves requisite, it would be a 4-star pitch. As is, it is still a fine pitch, and certainly the finest at the wall.

Location

This pitch starts up from the ledge above the 2-pins area, perhaps 150 feet to the south. It is the striking and obvious, left-facing, corner system that can be seen above and right from the belay (not the loose broken corner). Think of P1 & P2 of 'Over The Hill' in Eldo, and the pitch that looks like it is the right one.

Protection

A light rack to 2.5" and be sure to include a set of small nuts and RPs.

Photos

- No Photos -
Perhaps Dennis' finest first ascent. He died in a climbing accident on Mt. Robson in 1982 or '83. He loved to eat sardines and crackers on the top of longer climbs. He also did some routes with Nike Mike Brooks back in the day.... Sep 5, 2017
Steve Spaar and I joined Dennis on the first ascent. Jul 8, 2017
Sad to say, this is not a new FA. The route is called D1. FA: Dennis Smith, 1981. Jul 29, 2008