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Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
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Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Reed, Maurice Reed, Vernon Scarborough, 1980s
Page Views: 1,078 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route featuring a devious 5.10 roof move on the first pitch and an awesome thin face up high.
1. Climb the standard first pitch by following easy rock up a large, right facing corner. Pull a roof at the weakness and continue up easy ground to a belay in the corner. (100 ft., 5.10c)
OR: traverse hard right at Linn Cove Lullaby's pitch 1 anchors until you reach a fixed thread at the belay (100 ft., 5.9)
2. Make a traverse on nice crimps & tiny feet, passing a couple of old fixed pins backed up w/ TCUs. Pull around the arete and either pull a 5.9 roof or continue on 5.5 ground to a natural belay. (50 ft, 5.11b)

Can be done in one pitch, but clip your early pro long and be prepared for some rope drag.

Location

This route is located to the right of Linn Cove Lullaby. Look for a large, right-facing corner. Rappel via Boardwalk's anchors.

Protection

Lots of thin stuff, medium sized gear to back up the belay. A couple of old fixed pins (easily backed up) on the second pitch.

Photos

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Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
Is the 10c variation the same thing as "Nutrasweet"? What's the protection like? Oct 12, 2013