Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Reed, Maurice Reed, Vernon Scarborough, 1980s
Page Views: 1,366 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route featuring a devious 5.10 roof move on the first pitch and an awesome thin face up high.
1. Climb the standard first pitch by following easy rock up a large, right facing corner. Pull a roof at the weakness and continue up easy ground to a belay in the corner. (100 ft., 5.10c)
OR: traverse hard right at Linn Cove Lullaby's pitch 1 anchors until you reach a fixed thread at the belay (100 ft., 5.9)
2. Make a traverse on nice crimps & tiny feet, passing a couple of old fixed pins backed up w/ TCUs. Pull around the arete and either pull a 5.9 roof or continue on 5.5 ground to a natural belay. (50 ft, 5.11b)

Can be done in one pitch, but clip your early pro long and be prepared for some rope drag.

Location

This route is located to the right of Linn Cove Lullaby. Look for a large, right-facing corner. Rappel via Boardwalk's anchors.

Protection

Lots of thin stuff, medium sized gear to back up the belay. A couple of old fixed pins (easily backed up) on the second pitch.

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Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
Is the 10c variation the same thing as "Nutrasweet"? What's the protection like? Oct 12, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11-
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11-
At the end of pitch 1 there is a better stance just below the corner and with a long cord you can extend from the good placement in the corner down to more gear at this foot ledge. The tat in the corner is trash. No point clipping it. I'll cut it out the next time I'm up there. There is also a creepy looking block in the corner. I got above it and tried to trundle it with a hammer and surprisingly it wouldn't budge. Treat it with caution because of it's location and size but it seemed pretty wedged in there to me.

There were 3 rusty pins on the traverse. The first two were not very good and were removed as there is a good nut and/or a small cam placement there. The third pin has been replaced with a titanium one that should last forever. Enjoy.

A great route. Short sections of climbing but exposed and safe. Aug 12, 2018