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Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Vernon Scarborough
Page Views: 1,631 total · 12/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This is a serious but great route for those who enjoy thin holds.

Move up a short, steep wall, clip the first bolt, and then pull onto small holds on the slab. Several thin slab moves bring you up to a precarious mantle onto a small, sloping ledge (you wouldn't want to fall from here). Stand up, clip the second bolt, then make hard moves into the corner (crux). Superb stemming takes you up the corner - small gear (RPs and offsets) backs up the fixed pin. At the stance below the final headwall, get good gear - RPs, small cam, and/or Ball Nuts. Then enjoy good, moderately difficult climbing up the headwall to a rhodo ledge.

Location

This is the route immediately uphill (left) of the Borrowed Time corner. There is a big block on the ground; look above this and find a bolt on the slab.

Protection

Bring a few quickdraws for the bolts and fixed pin. Bring some small gear (RPs, offsets, Ball Nuts, small cams, etc) to protect the corner. Cold shuts up on the rhodo ledge for the single-rope rap to the ground.

Photos

Rick Carpenter
Kenai, Alaska
  5.11a R
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, Alaska
  5.11a R
A great lead, certainly worth doing Jun 16, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Whow Oh Whow, what a fantastic ROute!! A blood pump lead and a excellent route to go on TR! Bolted protection leads to small gear up high! Balancey and Technie climbing for fun all the way up!

To set up a TR climb the first pitch of Hindu Kush and then trend far right to bolted anchors!

  • *GNARLY**
Apr 19, 2012