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Routes in Main Tier
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Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Artistic Arete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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B.O.G Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Balti Porter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broach, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire in the Hole T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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First Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hindu Kush Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Hoist The Jolly Roger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Link, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nutrasweet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Patio Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protectorate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Razor Boy T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ship of Fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Special Ops S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Tiny Dancer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Watauga T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.099, -81.7815 |
| FA: | FA Dan Perry, John Crotts 1984 FFA Doug Reed 1986 (per High Country Cragger by Mike Grimm) |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Westlake on Aug 12, 2019 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This funky line tackles the space between Lynn Cove Lullaby and The Broach, weaving together some disjoint features to send climbers either towards the Lynn Cove topout (via the actual Nutrasweet P2) or the thin face exit just above the Broach via First Flight. Two options of very different character, but similar difficulty.
P1 Start as per the first pitch/approach of the Broach up an easy section just right of Lynn Cove Lullaby. Continue up through the corner staring at the right arching roof of the Broach but when you get to a good flat obvious ledge you can build a belay making this pitch around 5.6 or so.
OR make P1 a little longer and include the first 10ish crux section to take it to a higher belay.
From the end of the 5.6 part/first belay option, up and a bit left is a left leaning corner with a few broken up sections. The last bit of this is a cruxier region but protects well if you are observant. Pull through the end of this corner and, after exiting it, trend a little up and right into a nice corner under the big roof, although beware the loose looking chockstone sorta lodged there. A good gear belay can be had here with some big stoppers and finger to mid-sized gear.
P2 10c: Either do the above if you stopped sooner, or move out left from the higher belay and follow the cracks at the top of the corner to make a pumpy leftward high traverse using the vertical hand crack (and bad feet) out left to gain the face where Lynn Cove finishes. Crank through a bit of vert at the end to close things out.
Take extra care with slinging your pro (and protecting your follower) as the final arete you round near the Lynn Cove topout is mighty sharp!
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