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Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 573 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rick Carpenter on Jun 1, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Starts just left of anguish of capt bligh and goes up through a series of small crimps until you reach a large side pull for a rest, from here run up a few more crimp rails in order to gain a horizontal (the first gear placement) the fire the finish to anguish. This routes x rating is serious and the crux is prior to any gear placements.

Location

Start using a low crimp around the arete from anguish and a right hand side pull used as a foot for capt bligh and go up and left through small holds topping out on the left side of the arete.

Protection

Medium cam, and a medium sized stopper both very high off deck.

Photos

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Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a R
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a R
Doesn't deserve an X rating in my opinion. Though it's unprotected through the crux, it's really only about 15-20 feet until the danger is over. More like a high ball boulder problem, with a bad landing mind you, to good gear for the upper half. May 9, 2014