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Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Lee Carter, Dan Perry 1981
Page Views: 3,915 total, 29/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Nov 19, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

P1- Climb up lower-angled terrain right of a prominent waterstreak. Aim for the system of finger-sized cracks/roofs above. Undercling out and pull a couple of bulges (crux) to a fixed belay at two bolts. 5.9, 100'.

P2- Climb up a small right-facing corner to a bolt, move right on thin holds (crux) and pull a bulge. Climb steeper terrain on huge holds to the top. 5.10a, 40'.

NOTE: As with most routes here, the pitches can be linked if most pro is clipped long.

Location

Route is more or less in the middle of Ship Rock's main tier. Look for a dead tree at the base. The fixed belay can be spotted from below.

Protection

Take gear up to a #2 Camalot.
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
Nice route with much less wandering than Airly Gardens. P2 crux is a one-move wonder. We rapped straight to the ground off the top anchors with a single 70M. Jun 12, 2016
Oya Bermek
Cary, NC
 
Oya Bermek   Cary, NC
 
The crux at the beginning of the second pitch is considerably more difficult for short people. Aug 9, 2015
Kyle Kimball
Asheville, NC
  5.10a/b
Kyle Kimball   Asheville, NC
  5.10a/b
Having done this climb twice, the first pitch is way harder than the second. Maybe I went the wrong way at the beginning and end, but the "crux" right off the P2 belay seems like nothing after the scary first pitch. Jul 24, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Beautiful Route and honestly not that hard for the grade! Excellent route with ample protection! Hop on it! Sep 16, 2012
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Finally made it out for the lead and I completely agree. For me the crux was not bad at all, although the sort of runout first pitch did get my heart racing a bit. Wandering, manky rock down low, then no gear on that slabby bit until the roof, then you get a tiny C3 pocket! At least the moves to that point weren't too bad. Top pitch was a breeze, although it looks intimidating. Jul 12, 2010
Nick,
The climb is pretty obvious once you're there. From the P2 belay go straight up clipping a bolt...mabye...~8' off the belay. All you do is follow the obvious line up and to the right. The crux is in the corner after the bolt. Right hand goes wayyyy out to your right and there is a huge jug just after the roof. It's really a one move wonder and the pro is a bomber bolt. Don't worry...it's obvious where to go. I'll post a series pic of the crux here in a sec.

Do the route...you won't be sorry. :)
~Josh Jan 29, 2010
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
The route description and the photo of the climber on pitch two of this route seems a little different than what's in the Lambert/Shull guide, at least what the picture would suggest. Pg 100 shows a climber heading up through the "steep crux" (an overhang) rather than through thin holds on the right. Is this a variation? Looks like folks can take either the left side of the corner for the overhang or the right side for a thin crux - or perhaps both are correct and one ends up moving back right after the overhang? Anyone have any beta on this? Nov 30, 2009