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Routes in Main Tier
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Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Artistic Arete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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B.O.G Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Balti Porter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broach, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire in the Hole T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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First Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hindu Kush Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Hoist The Jolly Roger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Link, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nutrasweet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Patio Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protectorate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Razor Boy T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ship of Fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Special Ops S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Tiny Dancer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Watauga T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Doug Reed - 1985 |
| Page Views: | 6,839 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is one of the most badass lines in the Boone region, if not the state. An overhanging, angling pumpfest, the line is also surprisingly doable for the grade. Get on it and don't let go! The crux of this amazing line might be locking off to peer into the horizontal for gear.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.
Protection
A good variety of gear. Gear through the crux is blue TCU-sized through .75 camalot, with a flaring #2 camalot if you want it. Keep an eye open for keyholed nut placements. Bring a #3 camalot and maybe save some finger-sized cams for the belay. There is a set of newer, hangerless bolt studs hanging out in the vicinity of the belay.
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