Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
Routes in Main Tier
|Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X|
|Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Doug Reed - 1985|
|Page Views:||2,946 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on May 1, 2008|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis is one of the most badass lines in the Boone region, if not the state. An overhanging, angling pumpfest, the line is also surprisingly doable for the grade. Get on it and don't let go! The crux of this amazing line might be locking off to peer into the horizontal for gear.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.