We're hiring an experienced designer to join us in Boulder, CO.
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry, 1984
Page Views: 1,218 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.

Climb an unprotected start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.

"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."

Location

Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.

Protection

What pro?

I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.

Photos

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers! Nov 11, 2010
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe May 1, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart. Jul 6, 2011
GWB
 
GWB  
 
Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch. Apr 8, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO. Apr 9, 2012
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Getting to the 1st piece isn't that bad. However, that flake below the crux roof pull isn't the most inspiring thing on the planet. It looked like it would take a nice cam, so I place one. 1 little tug and the whole thing flexed like hulk hogan on some white powder, after downing some redbull. I replaced it with a okay nut, and hope for the best. After that 1st roof, things get better, in my opinion. Aug 22, 2016

More About Fire Point

Printer-Friendly