Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry, 1984
Page Views: 1,296 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.

Climb an unprotected start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.

"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."


Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.


What pro?

I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.


Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers! Nov 11, 2010
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe May 1, 2011
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart. Jul 6, 2011
Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch. Apr 8, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO. Apr 9, 2012
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
Getting to the 1st piece isn't that bad. However, that flake below the crux roof pull isn't the most inspiring thing on the planet. It looked like it would take a nice cam, so I place one. 1 little tug and the whole thing flexed like hulk hogan on some white powder, after downing some redbull. I replaced it with a okay nut, and hope for the best. After that 1st roof, things get better, in my opinion. Aug 22, 2016