Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry 1980
Page Views: 2,935 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


109 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Borrowed Time, a.k.a. Amputee, is the first easy route one comes to on the way up the approach trail. A short, bouldery crux involving an awkward undercling leads to an excellent moderate crack in a left-facing corner. You can place a tiny red Camalot or silver TCU to protect the crux moves, but a spot might be more in order.

Location

Borrowed Time is located immediately after the large roof encountered on the approach. It's the first moderate-looking line one comes to. Look for a small placard near the base of the climb, which memorializes a climber who lost his life at Ship Rock

Protection

Thin to 2".

Photos

Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.9
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.9
Hard to think of this as 5.9 because nearly all of the route is much easier, but the boulder problem at the bottom certainly is. Jul 12, 2010
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
 
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
 
Be cautious of your gear in the right crack of the lieback section. It is quite deep. Avoid the "cave move" at the top by traversing out on the face once you reach the lip for a more interesting finish. Jun 18, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Nothing but good times on this route! Great way to access the upper tier and an overall fantastic route! The fist move is the only 9 part, the rest is cruising! Sep 16, 2012
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9
As previously mentioned this climb offers a better way to reach the upper tier. Don't let the bouldery start keep you from hopping on this great line. There are two small underclings to start that both take good gear. If you are tall enough you may be able to reach the higher one to place a bomber red c3. A spot may be in order but if you blow it there is still potential for a jacked up ankle due to uneven rocks at the base.

EDIT: This route is much better with the addition of the new anchors. 20 extra feet of really good climbing with a really fun top out. Apr 16, 2013
Emil Briggs  
 
I think the rating on this is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and 5.9 feels about right. If you're tall the boulder problem start won't feel like much at all. But if you're really short it will feel more like a V2 move. Jul 12, 2014
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
  5.9
Curtis Baird   Johnson City, TN
  5.9
I think this is a fantastic route worth four stars. Nice boulder problem at the start then a classic crack that eats gear. Wish it went on for 100'! If you climb at Ship this is a must do! Jan 7, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
No matter what I do, that start is always hard. All of 5.9 but so so fun. You can drop a black tricam into the second finger slot (from the ground essentially), and clip a single biner to it with no draw. This will keep you safe from nasty little falls as you flail and crux out on this slabby weird start move. It's a little dicey once you commit your body up towards the jug solution: A fall from the highest position before the jug rail would be bad, even with the tricam clipped. Doing it protectionless would be cool, but make sure you know the beta - or have a bouldering pad, lol May 14, 2018
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Note: be careful on the pro at the beginning. A few years ago I watched a small stopper and a bit of rock get ripped out. The rock in that small seam is a little crumbly. May 15, 2018
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
5.10a PG13
Jill H.   Spartanburg, SC
5.10a PG13
Shorties beware on this route. I’m 5’1” and the bouldery start is so reachy for me that I still haven’t figured it out. I can get the right hand but it’s a pretty huge dyno to the left jug for me. Aug 26, 2018
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
 
Stephen McKinney   Columbia, SC
 
If you clip a single biner to your first piece in the undercling to avoid a jacked up ankle make sure you or your belayer or someone else in your party pulls the gear before you lower if your party plans to TR it. It’ll probably walk some and might pop out when you start to lower and there is considerable rope stretch at that point. Could be bad for the climber and/or the belayer. 6 days ago