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Routes in Main Tier

Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balti Porter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broach, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Link, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiny Dancer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Watauga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry 1980
Page Views: 2,550 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Description

Borrowed Time, a.k.a. Amputee, is the first easy route one comes to on the way up the approach trail. A short, bouldery crux involving an awkward undercling leads to an excellent moderate crack in a left-facing corner. You can place a tiny red Camalot or silver TCU to protect the crux moves, but a spot might be more in order.

Location

Borrowed Time is located immediately after the large roof encountered on the approach. It's the first moderate-looking line one comes to. Look for a small placard near the base of the climb, which memorializes a climber who lost his life at Ship Rock

Protection

Thin to 2".

Photos

Curtis Baird
  5.9
Curtis Baird  
  5.9
I think this is a fantastic route worth four stars. Nice boulder problem at the start then a classic crack that eats gear. Wish it went on for 100'! If you climb at Ship this is a must do! Jan 7, 2015
Emil Briggs  
 
I think the rating on this is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and 5.9 feels about right. If you're tall the boulder problem start won't feel like much at all. But if you're really short it will feel more like a V2 move. Jul 12, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9
As previously mentioned this climb offers a better way to reach the upper tier. Don't let the bouldery start keep you from hopping on this great line. There are two small underclings to start that both take good gear. If you are tall enough you may be able to reach the higher one to place a bomber red c3. A spot may be in order but if you blow it there is still potential for a jacked up ankle due to uneven rocks at the base.

EDIT: This route is much better with the addition of the new anchors. 20 extra feet of really good climbing with a really fun top out. Apr 16, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Nothing but good times on this route! Great way to access the upper tier and an overall fantastic route! The fist move is the only 9 part, the rest is cruising! Sep 16, 2012
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
 
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
 
Be cautious of your gear in the right crack of the lieback section. It is quite deep. Avoid the "cave move" at the top by traversing out on the face once you reach the lip for a more interesting finish. Jun 18, 2012
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.9
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.9
Hard to think of this as 5.9 because nearly all of the route is much easier, but the boulder problem at the bottom certainly is. Jul 12, 2010