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Routes in Main Tier
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Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Artistic Arete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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B.O.G Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Balti Porter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broach, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire in the Hole T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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First Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hindu Kush Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Hoist The Jolly Roger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Link, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nutrasweet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Patio Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protectorate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Razor Boy T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ship of Fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Special Ops S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Tiny Dancer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Watauga T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Dan Perry (1982) |
| Page Views: | 8,326 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Jun 21, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
One of the best 5.9 in the entire state. It has great movement, tons of exposure, and bomber gear. Both pitches have unique features that are hard to beat anywhere.
P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.
Option 2, start 20' to the right of said dihedral. Climb up jugs and mail slots with many more gear opportunities. Move up and left onto the slab and into the steep v-slot. This is my preferred method due better protection and reduced rope drag.
P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse left in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.
P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.
Option 2, start 20' to the right of said dihedral. Climb up jugs and mail slots with many more gear opportunities. Move up and left onto the slab and into the steep v-slot. This is my preferred method due better protection and reduced rope drag.
P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse left in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.
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