Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry
Page Views: 753 total · 8/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on May 2, 2011 with improvements by Tom Howard
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start up Boardwalk until you get to the first set of fixed anchors. Cut left and head straight up the tiered roof onto the face above. Achieve the ledge and climb the wide crack feature to the belay above The Broach.

Protection

Singles through 2"

Photos

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This route is killer and get way less traffic than it deserves. Pulls through a steep roof with good gear left of boardwalk. We did "Little Broach" as p2 but could be linked up with the finish of boardwalk. Oct 30, 2013
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.10a
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.10a
One thing that is a bit weird is figuring out where best to belay if splitting it into two pitches. I was thinking of doing it in one but didn't wanna sling the pro prior to the crux too long, otherwise it wouldn't do much good. I'm still not totally sure if you wouldn't land on something bad if you blew off the first crux hold while going for the jug rail, particularly if your belayer was a bit slow on the draw.

After pulling the overhang and working up and right on the slabby bit the rope drag was paralyzing. I made it off the slab and onto a big ledge below the final corner. Unfortunately the best I could do was put some gear low in a wide crack and extend my belay way back to the slab which sort of opened me up to a swing onto the boardwalk face if the follower slipped over the arete (unlikely). It may make more sense to stop on the slab at a good horizontal, although that might be a hanging belay. I'll revisit and see what else might work. Just don't be surprised if you gun it for the ledge and are bummed out by the options you find. It may be possible to excavate something on the left side, off the ledge proper?

There are also several spots that look promising (en route and at the ledge) but the cracks are among large loose blocks. Good worthy route but take care. Sep 27, 2017