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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,800 total, 20/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

True to it's name this quality route features fairly continuous thin edge climbing for most of it's length and is stout for the grade.

Boulder directly up to a high first bolt (or traverse from the left via some easier moves) then make the crux moves on the way to the 2nd bolt after which the size of the holds increase and it eases off in difficulty.

Location

Just left of Rat Crack.

Protection

3 bolts, 3 bolt anchor/rap (all 3'8")

Photos

Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
I don't know what ways best but you can TR it after leading rat crack. Apr 16, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Left, right, or straight up? Bill is right on, it's all about the same. The landing has gotten uglier over the years and a pad and/or a spotter would inspire confidence while seeking the 1st clip. The age of sticky rubber eased the sting a bit, but as Bill indicated, those dime edges (some larger) are a great test of your edging skills. Totally agree, this is one of the best routes at Big Rock. Nov 21, 2010
EJH
Menifee, CA
  5.10a
EJH   Menifee, CA
  5.10a
If this route was three times taller it would be a classic! Best route at Big Rock! Apr 13, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Short, yes, but my favorite route at BR! The crux is a beautifully delicate sequence on dime edges. I have led this starting from the left, from the right, and straight up; all about the same difficulty. A BR must do. Apr 30, 2007
Pat W  
One of Big Rock's best. Clean thin edges, sustained. Might want a spot to the first bolt. Apr 30, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
This route starts by traversing right using some delicate footwork. A few committing moves gets one to the first bolt. Moreover, the stance when clipping the second bolt can be a bit tenuous. The bolts are placed where they have to be, but this route is kinda stern for Big Rock. Feb 27, 2006