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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Bob Kessinger, 1974
Page Views: 1,440 total, 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This is the first route left of The Trough, and climbs sporty face past two bolts to a 3 bolt belay below Cheap Thrills; as an alternative you can cut left at the top and belay at the base of Mad Dogs.

The climbing isn't bad but this isn't a good choice for the 5.7 leader. It's more often used as an approach pitch to the more difficult pitches above.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Originally called "Dark Side of the Moon".

supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Jan 15, 2012
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
Did this route this weekend and I think the 5.7 rating is negotiable now.There is one move a little up from the first bolt where a fairly easy foothold has broken off. It went from a 3/4 inch mini ledge to a dime hold. Overall a fun climb. May 10, 2010
Run out like Joshua Tree Apr 3, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
Indeed a very heady lead for a 5.7 climber. Best to move left above the second bolt where the angle softens temporarily and clip the last bolt on Wedunett. I led it that way several times before leading it "proud line." When you're a little more than half-way between the last bolt and the anchor, facing a dicey move, you'll appreciate the name of this route. Apr 30, 2007