Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Bob Kessinger, 1974
Page Views: 1,761 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rebolting Complete! Details

Description

This is the first route left of The Trough, and climbs sporty face past two bolts to a 3 bolt belay below Cheap Thrills; as an alternative you can cut left at the top and belay at the base of Mad Dogs.

The climbing isn't bad but this isn't a good choice for the 5.7 leader. It's more often used as an approach pitch to the more difficult pitches above.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
Indeed a very heady lead for a 5.7 climber. Best to move left above the second bolt where the angle softens temporarily and clip the last bolt on Wedunett. I led it that way several times before leading it "proud line." When you're a little more than half-way between the last bolt and the anchor, facing a dicey move, you'll appreciate the name of this route. Apr 30, 2007
Run out like Joshua Tree Apr 3, 2010
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
Did this route this weekend and I think the 5.7 rating is negotiable now.There is one move a little up from the first bolt where a fairly easy foothold has broken off. It went from a 3/4 inch mini ledge to a dime hold. Overall a fun climb. May 10, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Originally called "Dark Side of the Moon".

supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Jan 15, 2012
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
 
Scott Coffin   Riverside, CA
 
Good head game training for Trad climbs. Would not suggest that beginning leaders or "sport-only" climbers attempt it. Dec 1, 2018