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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 927 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on May 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This is the last bolted line on the far right side of Big Rock, about 10’ right of False Headwall. Although not a true sport climb, the crux is well-protected and after that it’s bolted well enough. The climb gets its name from the vertical start, involving some delicate moves on thin holds to reach the first bolt. The bolt protects a similar sequence of moves. Above this, the route goes very easy on low angle slab with plenty of flakes for the hands and feet. Due to the nature of this climb, one star out of four. But it is well worth doing for the dicey opening moves. Rappel to descend.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Rob Donnelly
Riverside, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Rob Donnelly   Riverside, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Crux feels much harder than 5.9 with Mythos. Might be easier with some good edging shoes. The climbing starts getting exponentially easier after the first bolt. Apr 12, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Malcom M is spot on with description. +1 Apr 7, 2012
Malcolm M
  5.10b/c PG13
Malcolm M  
  5.10b/c PG13
Fun little start, but 5.9 is inaccurate (could be some holds broke off). I don't know many 5.9 climbers who can send a micro-crimp crux, which is what the first 12 feet of this climb is. Crux grade is likely V3, *possibly* V2 and is unprotected until you're through the crux and can clip the first bolt (not well protected as stated above). A nasty fall into thorn bushes and uneven ground will result from a failed start here.

It's possible the route has changed since FA, since the crimpy flakes at the start could probably break off pretty easily. But best case this start is 10b now, possibly harder. Past the crux, climbing is maybe 5.6 or 5.7 to the top. Feb 21, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
The Headwall is 10' right of "Kwanku Dai" (not False Headwall) and 20' right of the "Hard Trough". Dec 18, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
The crux is a nice sequential, well protected, edging problem, sort of a shorter, less steep version of "Edgard Sanction." This is NOT the last route on the right side of the Main Slab. There is a 4 bolt 5.8 route 50 feet right of The Headwall, put up in 1995 by Mike Hearn. It follows a polished crack/seam with a small overlap at the bottom. Dec 18, 2010

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