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Routes in Main Slab
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Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 125 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Olszewski on Jan 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Rebolting project in progress
Details
CA State Parks officially reopened Big Rock to public access April 28th. A dedicated group of volunteers is working to get official permission to replace existing bolts at Big Rock. It is expected to take most of the summer to complete. If you choose to climb prior to replacements being completed be aware that this area has been closed to climbing for several years and the current condition of bolts and rock is unknown. Climb and use bolts at your own risk and use your best judgment.
Description [Edit]
Squeezed between Pudnurdal on the left and Puppy Dog on the right, this route climbs up a mixture of standard Big Rock slab and brown spots. The climb is oddly bolted; the first seems to have been placed only because it was about time to place a bolt and the next bolt is a fairly heady run out from the first, with the crux well in between. The natural line seems to follow just right of the bolts. Climbing straight up or slightly to the left between these bolts yields a more dicey lead, smearing with little edges for the hands, and makes the climb more like 5.9. After the second bolt, the climb eases up considerably, passing one very new bolt and sharing the same anchor as the first pitch of Puppy Dog. Rappel to descent or climb the second pitch of Puppy Dog.
Monrovia, CA
Good moves though, and easy to grab on TR from easier adjacent climbing.
I agree with the odd bolting of this route. The first bolt could probably have been moved several feet up to better protect the crux. There was a decent stance there. Apr 1, 2012
Joshua Tree, Ca.