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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 16, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

Squeezed between Pudnurdal on the left and Puppy Dog on the right, this route climbs up a mixture of standard Big Rock slab and brown spots. The climb is oddly bolted; the first seems to have been placed only because it was about time to place a bolt and the next bolt is a fairly heady run out from the first, with the crux well in between. The natural line seems to follow just right of the bolts. Climbing straight up or slightly to the left between these bolts yields a more dicey lead, smearing with little edges for the hands, and makes the climb more like 5.9. After the second bolt, the climb eases up considerably, passing one very new bolt and sharing the same anchor as the first pitch of Puppy Dog. Rappel to descent or climb the second pitch of Puppy Dog.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

J Dowd
Joshua Tree, Ca.
J Dowd   Joshua Tree, Ca.
This route was put up by an inexperienced teenager in the early 90's, and it shows. Mar 2, 2014
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Would be very heady on lead. Probably a deck if you fall just before the second bolt, though the crux is a bit lower.

Good moves though, and easy to grab on TR from easier adjacent climbing.

I agree with the odd bolting of this route. The first bolt could probably have been moved several feet up to better protect the crux. There was a decent stance there. Apr 1, 2012