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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lee Harrell, early 1960's
Page Views: 1,724 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on May 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This line follows the left side of the Angel and surmounts the right side of the arching roof. It starts about 6’ to the right of Northwest Passage. Thin climbing on slippery dark rock leads to the crux – pulling the roof. Although there is a bolt just below the roof, many a lead climber has taken a nasty fall from the crux. Be sure to wear your helmet on this one! Once above the roof, easy slab climbing leads past one more bolt to the anchor at the start of Let it Bleed. From here you can rap (a 60m is just long enough) or continue up Let it Bleed or one of the Flakes. Due to the slippery nature of the black rock, many teams choose to start up Northwest Passage and traverse up and right below the roof to gain the crux.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Keith Leaman  
 
Benjamin- "posthumous" Ha Ha. We ain't dead yet! ;^) How about "belated"? By the way, I heard from Lee Harrell a few months ago. Thanks for the positive feedback. As an artist, I've always admired the powerful black figurative and ominous shape made by the wet streaks under the roof. May 21, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Keith.....Thank you for sharing. It's always great to hear details about Big Rock's past that have been shrouded in mystery and rumor for so long. Again, many belated thanks. Better late then never. Edit...great point Keith. Belated exchanged for posthumous. May 18, 2013
Keith Leaman  
 
Lee Harrell did the FA in the early '60s. One of the first lines to go up after the Trough. It was a test piece back then, before the .10s and .11s were done. A memorable series of moves for me-47 years later. Oct 19, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Maybe the best climb on at the crag! I felt it was a bit greasy down low. Apr 6, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
I disagree with the first comment. The rock up to the first bolt (even without using obvious features) is grippy. It's the section after the 2nd and 3rd bolt which is slippery. There are obvious crimps and dime edges leading to the roof but it sure is heady!! Back off it a half dozen times before going for it. Lots of whining but glad I did it! May 9, 2011
UpRope
 
UpRope  
 
This is an excellent route but never could get up the nerve to lead it back in the day. Even in the summer the area under the roof can be wet...and slimy. Feb 1, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
The Roof is an excellent route involving slippery, water polished slab moves to get to the 1st bolt. I've never found the roof move (protected by a small nut or cam) to be as challenging as the slippery slab/crimps below the 3rd bolt. Nov 25, 2010