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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 65 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

Despite the name this route is bolted and leadable although the runout nature of the climbing keeps it a toprope for most. The route features thin edge climbing with the slightly thinner crux about midway between the two bolts.

Perhaps not quite an R rated route but it is a heads-up lead and falling at the crux might land you on the lower-angled bit below the first bolt - which wouldn't be good for your ankles.

Location

Just left of Edger Sanction in the center of the slab.

Protection

2 bolts (1/4"), 3 bolt anchor/rap (3/8")

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10d R
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10d R
Tony's comments are right on! It was a rush when there was only one bolt, and while the crux is short, the route is significantly thinner and harder than Edger Sanction. Dec 26, 2010
Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
Not to be rude, but I think this route is thiner and harder than Edger Sanction at 10a. Not as sustained, but way thiner. 10c/d is about right,IMO. I lead this back before there were two bolts on the route. A real attention graber! Even with the two bolts, it's still a rush. Jun 9, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b R
Another nice, delicate face climb but the crux really isn't much harder than Edger Sanction, and less sustained. I've thought about leading it but not too psyched about the old spinning hangers. May 20, 2007