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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Randy McClure - April 1997
Page Views: 75 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on May 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This route is not listed on the topo sign at Big Rock, nor is it listed in any guidebooks that I know of.

Easy slab climbing gains a large dish with a small vertical section. The crux is pulling out of the dish and is well-protected. Continue up through easy slab climbing and lots of flakes to a bolted anchor. The crux can (unfortunately) be all too easily bypassed by climbing the right edge of the dish. Rappel to descend.

Location

It is about 10’ left of Headwall and just to the right of the Hard Trough.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Rob Donnelly
Riverside, CA
  5.7+
Rob Donnelly   Riverside, CA
  5.7+
Good crux gives pause but is well protected. Apr 12, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks Ben! Route info has been updated. Nov 20, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.8-
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.8-
Hmmm... this felt like 5.7 IMHO, but definitely could be 5.7+/5.8- depending on where you pull over the bulge. On the FA this was named "Kwanku Dai" (To Look to the Sky). Fun polished slab, to a pull over the bulge. Continue up interesting palming and crimps on the upper slab, to the anchor. Nov 20, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Led this again the other day. Straight up past the first bolt seemed considerably easier than I remembered and I have to agree with you, Brian. So I've down-rated it: 5.8- because the crux feels a bit harder than any move on any Big Rock 5.7. I wish the FA had placed the bolt to the left of the crux hand holds, forcing the climber to stay away from the right edge of the dish.

I would really appreciate input from more climbers as to the difficulty rating for this climb. Mar 5, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7+
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7+
It's about 5.7 if you bypass the "crux" on the right. I think it's a bit contrived to call a route 5.9 when it has a one move crux that close the ground with an easier way still within easy reach of the first bolt. Feb 24, 2009