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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,285 total, 9/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This route is right of Frontal Lobotomy, and is the middle route of three short routes enroute to multiple bolted belays about 40 feet up. This route involves clipping a bolt and making a thin face move or two to reach for a hand-sized hole in the wall. Grab this and make another move before clipping a second bolt.

Protection

3 bolts to bolt(s) anchor(s)

Photos

Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Ya, it's not one you want to fall on. Apr 6, 2012
johnnydanger
California
johnnydanger   California
Slick feet just past the crux caused a slide where I attempt to slow down by grabbing the hueco on the way down. Ended up just above my belayer. Bad move..It turned out alright so I wrapped it tight with tape and took another shot which was successful. It's for sure is a bit runout at the top.

Jan 21, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Grade inflation seems to be infiltrating Big Rock? Like Josh Hibbard I've been climbing this route for awhile, since 1983, and while the footholds on the dike are slippery, I don't see where anything has broken off over the years. While gravity maybe exerting a greater pull on me, "Mind Bender" remains a thoughtprovoking climb on wonderfully featured orange rock. Dec 18, 2010
EJH
Menifee, CA
  5.10a
EJH   Menifee, CA
  5.10a
Definitely feels harder then Frontal Lobotomy (5.10a), but not a full grade. Feels a bit more slippery, which makes you take pause when heading through the crux. Apr 13, 2010
Jon Leicht
  5.9 R
Jon Leicht  
  5.9 R
I did not think this was as hard as 10a. maybe climbing at Santee is paying off and the little edges don't seem so little. I would give it an "R" though. You BETTER make that clip on the second bolt. It is a little off right. I don't think you would hit ground, but darn close! May 12, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Mind Bender video - youtube.com/watch?v=PnJGoke… Jan 25, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Climbing directly through the hole is quite reachy and perhaps lends to a higher difficulty rating. You can also climb slightly to the right and traverse back to the hole, which is a little easier than straight up. But if you can reach the hole from the good stance it's definately no harder than 5.9.

revisited: Climbed this again recently and it definately seems harder than I remember. I agree Euan, harder than Frontal Lobotomy. May 1, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10a
I agree that it is harder than 5.9. I think it is perhaps harder than the 10a just to the left. Mar 30, 2007
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.10
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.10
The guide books and the metal sign at Big Rock dub this a 5.9. However, the beginning (up to the hand-sized hole) seems more difficult than 5.9 to me. The dike provides some features for your feet, yet it is very slippery. I have climbed this route since 2003 and am guessing that a foothold broke loose making it a 5.10 route. Or, I might just be getting old and fat... Mar 29, 2007
Adam Stackhouse    
 
The second bolt on this route is ill-positioned involving a real stretch to the left with the left hand. A fall while attempting to clip this would be as I often read, "unfortunate." I will reposition it over next time I'm there. Also, this route can be extended by clipping a qd into one of the initial belays and heading up and right from there. Two more bolts through very easy territory to a 3-bolt belay makes it more fun. Two more bolts to the top to belay at one of the upper Trough belays, complete it. Feb 22, 2006