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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Keith Leaman, 1965
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This is the obvious hand crack on the leftmost, lower section of Big Rock. While considerably short of being a classic, its steep start with relatively positive jams provide for some fleeting excitement. Kind of a bad landing if one doesn't wait to get pro in higher.

Protection

Hand size and smaller

Photos

Pat Ament took me here and this was the first climb we jumped on. I was just a kid looking to impress a famous old hand, but got my butt handed to me. Amazing what a little technique can do. Dec 28, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Thanks, Lee. Great story and historical perspective. Mar 21, 2017
Keith Leaman  
 
Lee Harrell introduced myself and others to Big Rock ca 1965. At the time there were only about 4-5 established routes. Lee had mentioned an easy crack on the left side of the rock (unbeknownst to us, he meant the Upper Crack) so when Phil Gleason and I mistook the Rat Crack for an "easy" route on our first trip to Big Rock in '65, I free soloed up the thing with Phil soloing behind me.

Given the difficulties, I was getting apprehensive about 1/3 of the way up and, while struggling to clean large amounts of debris from the crevice, suddenly an enormous rat shot out of the crack, jumped onto my shirt, ran down my pant leg and scurried past Phil in a bewildering frenzy. Shaken a bit, we continued up and when we later told Lee about the incident I believe he said: "Oh, I haven't done that route, but I hear that's why it's called the Rat Crack!" Hilarious! Oct 19, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
This little thing has a nasty start! But fun once your established. Apr 6, 2012
great crack, tough start for those with small wingspans. Aug 31, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
And the debate about Rat Crack's rating goes on. Troy Mayr calls it 5.9 with **'s. The start can be problematic, but with a "ring jam" and good footwork may be 5.9? Sandbag, definitely, but not 5.10b. No mystery that the start is the crux. Nov 21, 2010
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.9
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.9
This route is a 5.9 boulder problem (crux) start. Feb 20, 2008
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
5.9+
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
5.9+
My guidebook for this area labels Rat Crack as a 5.8. The first move off the ground seemed much harder than that for me. Perhaps it is 5.8 for those over 5'7'' or with a long reach...
A fun climb once you get on it. Mar 26, 2007
Pat W  
A bit of a sandbag here, awkward greasy jams with no feet at the start. 10b ish. Apr 30, 2006