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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,203 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This fun but poorly protected climb moves through the left side of the obvious overhang about 40 feet to the left of The Trough. The crux is moving through the roof. Not for the faint of heart. Anybody feel like adding a bolt or two?

Location

Start below and on the left side of the arched roof, just to the left of the broad black water stains.

Protection

3 bolts for the whole route mean the potential for a ground fall. First bolt is 25 feet off the ground, 2nd is just below the roof, and the third is 10-15 past that. 2 rope rap anchors on top.

Photos

Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
Did I read the description to say - anyone want to retro bolt this? You are joking, right?

This is a good route. I think I first did it in 1974. Back then it was considered a bit of a test piece. You had to be somewhat commited to climbing it well. Good training for Weeping Wall climbs. Apr 14, 2013
Rolf Rybak
Penticton BC
Rolf Rybak   Penticton BC
Did this route in 2012, definitely a mind bender! Old school 5.9. I felt Let it Bleed 5.10b/c was easier. Jan 6, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9 R
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9 R
Yes, definitely committing. Although it is runout to the 2nd bolt the holds are large and it is possible to place small gear under the flake. NW Passage used to have a 3-bolt anchor (1/4"ers), below and left of the roof, to protect the crux. The new bolt under the roof is more inspiring, but still requires "intestinal fortitude" to step left and let go of that right hand hold under the arch/roof. In early season the roof seeps and the holds under the arch can be wet. While the addition of another bolt at the crux might let some leaders sleep better at night I don't think solicitting the addition of bolts is appropriate here. If the huevos aren't big enough just TR it. Nov 21, 2010
I guess the start was runnout but the real climbing is fine. I do remember trying to get up the guts to lead this for a while. It was a real thrill when I finally did. Not nearly as bad as the runout might look. Sep 1, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
This is a fun and spicy route but I have to admit, I haven't led it yet. Nice, delicate moves bring you to the roof. Surpassing this is a real fun move, definitely the crux and I'm sure very heady on lead. May 19, 2007