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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Lee Harrell, 1967, FFA: Paul Gleason, Phil Gleason & Keith Leaman, 1967
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This seldom done climb is among the harder offerings at Big Rock but is an unknown obscurity to most. Despite it's rating the climbing is mostly moderate in difficulty with a brief and reasonably well protected crux.

Starts at the base of The Trough and follows an obvious diagonal weakness up and left as it slashes across the main face of Big Rock. Reasonably well protected, with the crux smears coming near the end, at a steep section where it joins the route Giant Step. Once past the crux continue up past the last bolt of Giant Step to anchors. An easy walk-off exists down the left margin of the face.

Protection

7 bolts, anchors

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Hey Chris....time for an FA update. Per Keith Leaman's comments on his photo...
FA: Lee Harrell (1967)
FFA: Paul & Phil Gleason and Keith Leaman (1967) Mar 31, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Wonderful thin slab and friction moves on this left trending line. As Chris indicated in the description, begin near the Trough and follow the faint seam that diagonals up and left. Bruce....my understanding is that the name is derived from the smallish, tightness of the seam/crack that The Virgin follows, but maybe Keith Leaman could shed more light on that fact. And wouldn't English Hanging Garden be the final test? Dec 26, 2010
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10
They should call this route (final test) after you lead this it time to leave big rock behind. Feb 20, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10
I remember the crux bolt of Giant Step having been simply a smaller size stud, sans the hanger. One might have to sling a nut around it if it hasn't been replaced (since the 90s when I did these). This is definately a neat route. Aug 2, 2007