Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA: John Gosling 1970
Page Views: 1,570 total · 10/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rebolting Complete! Details


This bolted route runs up the leftmost dark water streak right of the Rat Crack. Its start is very hard, with the first bolt coming after some serious moves. It was initially rated 11b and considered a sandbag. It rarely sees action mostly because of the nature of Big Rock's clientele, and the tough start.


Four bolts, bolted anchor


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Decent enough climbing, but it's rarely done as most people are there to climb the moderate slabs. Mar 7, 2006
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
It is most definitely sand bag at 11d the opening move is the whole thing its a nasty 5.12+ in your face mantle I have worked on it for hours years ago and never pulled it off only seen it done once and that was by one of the original Riverside Quarry developers. Feb 5, 2008
Did this a few times in the 80's. It's a stem/mantle with a high reach, after you stick clip the bolt. Kevin Powell called it 11d back then, said 'you've got to want it'. Probably 12a or b Jul 3, 2013
Keith Leaman
Keith Leaman  
It's good to finally get a consensus on the difficulty of EHG. I was with Dr. John Gosling and the Gleason brothers during the first ascent in 1970. We each took our turns leading it after John (sans clip stick!). Naturally, almost 50 years ago, we were hesitant to rate anything higher than 5.9 and only joked about something being rated 5.12, but there it is.

Pat Merrill made the first hand-drawn guide to Big Rock in 1970 and had EHG rated as 5.9! We all laughed at that when Phil and I saw the first copies. I think we all decided it had to be at least 5.10, and that we should probably accept the fact that some of the climbing we were doing should receive a 5.11 rating as well.

Those first moves over the overhang were really thin and quite memorable. The next time I talk to Dr. Gosling I'll ask if he remembers the climb. He teaches at Stanford Medical School. May 16, 2014
Curt Shannon
Curt Shannon  
Definitely a sandbag at 5.11 of any kind. This was the one route at Big Rock that I would want to do every time I went there--certainly the best climb at the crag, IMO. I'm somewhat surprised by the low star (quality) ratings.

Curt Oct 10, 2016