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Midge Squadron
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 64
votes
Routes in Main Crag
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Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Rick Leitner, May 1998 |
| Page Views: | 3,286 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening
Details
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route lies about 6-10 feet left of "Bad Girls Get Spanked" and on the same face. In the attached picture, "Bad Girls" is the climb drawn in.
Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls" or "Mosquito Burrito." Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "Bad Girls," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.
Unlike Bad Girls, this climb is reasonably secure and is not seeping water out of crux holds. The exception here being the intial leftward moves to separate yourself from the shared protion of the climbs, where blowing a clip would be a very bad idea.
The climb is relatively long and a 60M is a good idea to lower off of the route. I did not try this with a 50M, but it looked like it would be close.
See Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon for details.
Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls" or "Mosquito Burrito." Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "Bad Girls," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.
Unlike Bad Girls, this climb is reasonably secure and is not seeping water out of crux holds. The exception here being the intial leftward moves to separate yourself from the shared protion of the climbs, where blowing a clip would be a very bad idea.
The climb is relatively long and a 60M is a good idea to lower off of the route. I did not try this with a 50M, but it looked like it would be close.
See Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon for details.
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