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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Tony. Bubb, 6/6/02
Page Views: 1,367 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route lies about 8 feet to the right of the start of "Mosquito Burrito," and on the same face. In the attached picture, "Mosquito Burrito" is the climb drawn in.

Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls" or "Mosquito Burrito." Scramble up to the clean face on a 3rd class slab, which lies below. Clip the belayer to the first bolt of Mosquito-Burrito on a 5-6 foot section of rope, as the belay is insecure and you do NOT want to blow the crux if your belayer is on the ground. You would be injured without a doubt. Perhaps it would be even wiser to clip the first bolt of Mosquito Burrito with a long runner, but you still should not blow the crux.

Start the route at the far right of the roof below and right of Mosquito... Get a hold of the two sloping rails and use those and smearing foot to propel yourself to a "sloper jug" at the lip of the overhang/roof. Set your feet and CRANK to a reasonable hold up and right very close to the arete near the roof. Once this hold is grasped, the rest is footwork. The moves are really fun

Continue up the arete, where there are a few options to set stoppers, continuing to the top. At the top, traverse left 6 feet to reach the anchors of Mosquito Burrito.

This climb may improve with traffic, as it is slightly dirty at this time.

Protection

A few large nuts and the willingness to do the crux unprotected with a slab below. If you blow the crux on lead, injury is probably inevitable.

Save that, this climb could be TR'd from the anchors above Mosquito Burrito.

Photos

Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10c R
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.10c R
A confusing start. The leftmost set of large, angled sloper-rails do not lead anywhere. Aim up and to the right for a couple decent hand-holds, find a foot, and go up and left. Stay off the arete for the 10c/d route. If you go further right, to scramble into the gully and then come left, and if you use the arete the rest of the way up, that is more like a 5.7. Oct 14, 2017
JulianG  
If you follow the natural weakness in the rock, this route is more like 5.8 or .9 R. Once you are are over the roof, the climbing is easier, but there is no protection for a while. So it will be more like an X climb. Still, a worth while climb to do especially on TR after doing the Mosquito Burrito. If you do get bored on top rope, you can play the game of find the 6 chopped bolts. Apr 11, 2015