Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Equipped by Rick Leitner, March 1998. FFA: Chris Alber, April 1998.
Page Views: 2,489 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a cool route up the smooth headwall left of Meteor Roadblock. Fun 5.11 leads to steeper and harder climbing. There is a little glue but no chipping.

There is a 2nd pitch.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts.

Photos

Surprisingly fun climbing! The last move is a ridiculous toss for which I absolutely could not get the feet right. Are people tossing all the way to the jug or to the micro crimps on the slopey lip? Beta please! The bolts are close enough together though that you can yard up to the last bolt and work the crux on TR. Jun 28, 2002
Re: beta. I went left hand to the right crimper on the slopey lip. It's tough to hit right, so I tried to do it as statically as possible. Jul 2, 2002
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
This route has a 2nd pitch that is pretty good -- rated 5.11c in Rolofson. Technical stemming up a slightly overhanging wall -- a junior version of Meteor Roadblock. A couple of the key holds are covered in guano. Aug 9, 2002
This route is great with two dynamic moves in a row. Careful when you throw the dyno, it's easy to over toss for it. Also, after I make the first right hand lunge to the sidepull and stack my left hand under my right on the tiny edge, I set my feet to the right and dyno up with my left hand. This beta worked well for me. And to whoever stole my biners off the top of this route I say, "You, my cheap conscienceless sociopath, are a tool!". Jul 20, 2003
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Moderate climbing to a rest to a V5 boulder problem. Oct 1, 2005
Deathkills
North Denver CO
  5.12d
Deathkills   North Denver CO
  5.12d
I loved this route... it was my first for the grade... the book said 12d. So I hope it is solid.... Apr 24, 2008
Kaelen Willaims
  5.12c
Kaelen Willaims  
  5.12c
Easily the best route at the Bowling Alley in my opinion; it would be clasic if the first half was 5.12 instead of 5.10.

By the way, what's with all this talk of dynoing? I locked off on a sidepull crimp and used a little momentum, definitely not a dyno. Jun 12, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.12+
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.12+
There is a left-leaning, slightly gaston crimp 10" down from the jug. I was able to go to it and then bump to the top. My left foot is backstepped on the previous crimp. But for me (6', +2) it's easy enough to just go all the way. Deadpoint at least, might call it a dyno. Aug 23, 2008
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is really fun! If the upper headwall was only longer, say 80 feet of that slightly overhanging crimping, it would be mega-classic. Still quite a nice route with memorable and fun moves. Probably one of the better routes I have done at this crag. It reminded me just a little tiny bit of the face moves on Lucid Creaming. Big moves to positive but small holds. I think most people would agree and smile after doing this crux, it's brilliant!! Feb 3, 2013
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
I would second Ken Leiden's comments about the upper pitch. Not nearly as good as the first but worth doing if up on the ledge warming up.

You can avoid the guano if you head left at the headwall instead of moving right to the pillar. Careful hand placement on the pillar would probably work also, but it'd be tough to see the correct spot from below.

More fun as a warm-up than Termites. Jan 22, 2017