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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Alber in May 1998
Page Views: 941 total · 14/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Mar 5, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Pre-clipping the first 2 bolts is recommended. Start at the same flake as "Shiny Dog," but move up left past first 2 bolts to a big manufactured jug & 3rd bolt. Move right to a tips lieback hold (shared with "Shiny Dog") & gain a sloping shelf (12b). The first ascent managed to climb straight up, past 3rd & 4th bolt, onto the shelf & rated the climb 5.12d, but I have never seen anyone other than Chris go this way.

Rest up on the shelf & climb the overhung dihedral with the crux past the last bolt. Bob D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook says climb the arete. This is incorrect. You climb the small dihedral with the right hand slapping the arete two or three times. Gain an undercling below the right side of a small roof (Meteor Rhoadblock goes out the left side) & clip the anchor above. A final 5.12a sequence liebacks around the right side of the roof to a jug right of the anchor.

As for the manufactured jug, it was actually a replacement hold for a jug that pulled off. It is possible to do the climb without making the bottom half of the route a bit harder.

Location

This is located between "Meteor Rhoadblock" and "Shiny Dog."

Protection

7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
So sad this line. It actually has cool powerful movement right off the deck. However the squeeze job of bolts all around it and the manufactured jug just kind of makes it a joke. I mean, every time I climb it I have fun. I guess you just have to laugh sometimes. It seems as though the person who bolted this sector really wanted to practice putting bolts in, 'cause there everywhere. If this was an independent line with no bolts to the right or left, minus the manufactured jug, it may have been an awesome route. 'Tis a shame.... Mar 6, 2014
This route totally kicks ass! Doesn't feel squeezed when you're on it. Apr 3, 2015

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