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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, July 1998
Page Views: 180 total, 1/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Sep 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is just to the left of Take the Termites Bowling and is squeezed. Climb up good liebacks to a big move past the first bolt to a good right hand hold. Skip the drilled pocket for more interesting climbing past the second bolt, and continue up the overhanging arete. The climb using holds right next to the bolts on Take the Termites Bowling, but it does follow an independent line of moves. Skipping the pocket does not change the grade.

Protection

6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.
Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
Hey, Curt, if you don't like it that's just fine with me. Go somewhere else. I find myself returning to this wall many times over the years. It has a quick approach, & it is more sheltered from the wind than most areas in the canyon. The fact that I can do five 5.12 routes & barely move my rope bag is a plus. It's a great training wall with much to offer. I am not condoning this route density at most crags, like really classic areas. Let's be real too, Dude. The bolts aren't 6 inches apart. They are more like 4 to 5 feet apart. May 5, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
This route should have never been put in. I mean, seriously! This little section of the wall is a complete shit show with the amount of bolts and the amount of lines. There should have been Amazing Face, Meteor Roadblock, and Super Bon Bon...and that's it. All of these bolts 6 inches apart from each other seriously takes away from the existing independent lines which actually climb quite nice rock with cool movements. 'Tis a shame. Can't say I agree with this style of bolting at all.... Mar 6, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. As for the start, I dyno up & right with the left hand to a jug, then a few reasonable moves lead up left to 2nd bolt. Some people climb the start to "Super Bon Bon" but avoid using the manufactured jug. From a tips lieback hold below a sloping shelf, clip 3rd bolt and then reach (dyno)to a big edge and continue up the blunt arete. At 4th bolt, stay on the arete. Your left foot goes on the big hold below the bolt, and then deadpoint to the horizontal crack. If you move right at the 4th bolt around the arete, it drops the grade slightly too. It's a great training route for power endurance. Feb 19, 2013
Wow, those bolts to his left look really close. Oct 9, 2004
This route has not been modified. The route to the left has a comfortized jug midway up. Jun 17, 2004