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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner & Rho Green, May 1998
Page Views: 4,493 total, 22/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the classic crack/corner line to a slot and a tough exit. It is complicated, but it has rests to soften the overall grade.

Location

Per Chris O'Connor, this route is in the middle of the wall, it is the fourth route from the right side and follows the left side of a prominent arete to the top.

Protection

8 bolts.
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
"Strange route, 2 stars is a stretch. Blew the onsight because the crack/slot over the final bulge was full of mud.... The hand jam at the top is gross too. Not very satisfying or enjoyable."

There's been a lot of rain recently which would explain the mud. Anyway, you can climb the last crux on the right at a similar grade on face holds avoiding any jams. Sorry you had a tough time on this one. Aug 9, 2017
NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
Strange route, 2 stars is a stretch. Blew the onsight because the crack/slot over the final bulge was full of mud.... The hand jam at the top is gross too. Not very satisfying or enjoyable. Aug 9, 2017
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
This one flummoxed me for two sessions until I finally unlocked a crux sequence that worked. I found no way to make the hand-jam feel anywhere near 12a/b. That rattly jam felt much harder. I'm pretty confident in that I found the easiest beta, and it felt like solid 12b to me and my partner. Btw, the fall is clean. The ledges below you look sketchy, although you'll clear them.

I highly recommend this pitch. Sep 7, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
This route just climbs weird. I recommend doing Super Bon Bon or Amazing Face in this sector. This one to me is questionable if it's worth doing. Mar 6, 2014
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Good but kind of weird route. Onsighting this would be pretty proud, as it is fairly tricky. The lower hand jam shredded my right hand, upper hand jam was ok. Not sure how/where you would jam with your left(?).

I kind of hated this route while I was climbing it. It was hot and greasy, and the climbing isn't really my style. Looking back on it though, it is probably a good route. The climbing is fairly sustained the whole way, with a fairly difficult crux. Rock is solid too. Jun 19, 2013
This climb is much better than it looks and well worth doing - especially if you need a short approach. It is quite beta intensive and would be a very hard onsight. The hand jam at the very top is less painful if done with the right hand. This also sets up well for the top out. May 30, 2012
Carolyn
Boulder, CO
 
Carolyn   Boulder, CO
 
Really great. Super well protected, good for folks starting to lead 12s. The glued piece near the top was definitely appreciated. Jun 4, 2007
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.12b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.12b
3 or four years late but here nonetheless. The location: This route is in the middle of the wall, it is the fourth route from the right side and follows the left side of a prominent arete to the top. May 4, 2007
ac
ac  
Nice work, PB! "Retro-trad" is a classy evolution of the game, countering the forces of gridbolting & general dumbing-down unfortunately so prevalent these days. Kudos to Bob D. and others who still believe in the value of 'mixed' bolts & gear pitches. Placing gear is fun, and high-stakes physics problems with weakening forearms are still at the core of our freaky, wonderful sport...I think.

Have a burning urge to only establish 3 per bodylength bolt ladders? Do us all a favor, and please stay inside.

Just 2 cents. Sep 28, 2005
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
For those looking for a little more interest on this excellent route, try it placing gear. I skipped the first two bolts easily with a 1.5 friend at the first crux. I clipped the next two bolts and then placed a good stopper before the reach to the reinforced hold. The next bolt could be skipped but I clipped it and then placed a #3 friend in the last slot at the lip to bypass the last bolt. So in all 3 out of 7 bolts were used and two of these could probably be skipped as well. All the pieces I placed were really good. Sep 25, 2005
Mama mia, 1-plan good for send too? for 1-plan sending, climbing 1 climb, but only 1-time, no? then climbing 4 climbs, but only 1-time each. In this way, climbing 1-climb, 1-plan, 4-plan, is very. You will find this out. Dec 13, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
To repeat a previous question...where is this climb? May 18, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
I have nothing against kneebars, except I suck at them. The comment above was in jest. Apr 5, 2004
Hey Peter, what's the argument against kneebars? Sometimes they really help. I know it's been three years since you made the above comment, but you see I am new to these modern word and picture making boxes known as computers.yours truly,unfrozen caveman climber Feb 5, 2004
Since I'd rather not go pay for a guidebook (sorry, Bob), would someone like to post the location of this climb on the wall in less ambiguous terms? Jul 25, 2003
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
Skip this comment if you don't want to read beta. I think Its a tricky route for an onsight, but not too bad for the redpoint because you can really learn to milk the rests on this thing if you want to (or in my case need to). No-hands rests are possible at the 3rd, 4th, and 6th bolts, although climbing into the slot at the 6th bolt feels like cheating so I try to avoid it. The hard move at the 5th bolt (what Aron is talking about) is made considerably easier by using an undercling with the left hand -- it never has chalk on it so most people must not do it this way. The hand jam at the 7th bolt is made considerably easier by using a knee bar with right leg to brace the left knee against the left wall. Using these tricks, I don't even need to pretend I'm that Sven dude.

Update 8/16/2007: the secret undercling at the 5th bolt has broken off making this move harder. Jul 8, 2002
I actually find no aspect of this route difficult and feel 5.11d is more appropriate. I also feel that the top move is not really painful and using a spyder mitt to do it is gay! Not that there is anything wrong with that. Jul 8, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I climbed this once a long while back, and unlike the rest of the people talking about this route, I didn't find the top the crux. While that move was really tough, the move that help me up again and again was getting onto the slabby block about 1/2 way up the climb. Maybe I'm just not flexable enough. Jul 5, 2002
I climbed this route today and had the same experience Bill had. Once you get the jam there is this little something stabbing you in the back of your hand. I myself had no spyder mitt, so for just one moment, I decided to be like that Sven guy that can't pump himself enough on this website, and [very briefly]became more manly. This fleeting infusion of "Sven-focus" allowed me to make the painful pull to the crimp. Bill, when you get back from Yosemite you must make your hand more "Sven-like" but only for just one moment, and the route shall fall! I would suggest a hammer and a small pebble to pound into the back of your hand as initial "Sven-training" for this route. Jun 2, 2002
This is a great route for your first 5.12. I'm trying to make it my first 5.12. The protection is excellent - you're nearly on a toprope for most of the climb. I really like the variety of moves on this pitch.

The hand jam move at the top is the crux for me. I recommend taping up your left hand. If this move is at your limit (as it is for me), if you fall off this move you'll get a big of a gobie on the back of your hand that will hinder further attempts. Since taping for one jam (there are two other jams that I use on this route, but no tape is necessary there) is a hassle, I wear a Spyder Mitt on just my left hand - sort of the Michael Jackson look. It works great and makes the crux hand much more comfortable and solid. Of course, some of my friends claim this is aid... May 16, 2002
Elijah Flenner
  5.12a
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12a
This climb does not look very good from the ground, but it is sustained and is the best short 5.12 I have done in Boulder Canyon. It would also make a great first 5.12. None of the moves are all that hard, good clipping stances, and the bolts are very close together. Mar 14, 2002
Don't worry Peter, we all know that you are, in fact, a tough guy, and that tough guys do not use kneebars! Dec 5, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
I'd just like to say that although it looks like I'm getting a no-hands kneebar on this climb, it is only for demonstration purposes and that I neither need nor endorse the use of kneebars while climbing (most of the time). Dec 5, 2001