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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 105 ft
FA: Rick Leitner, July 1998
Page Views: 7,435 total · 35/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a well-protected beginning lead route. Belay from under the obvious tree and scramble up the class 4 to the base of the right face at the dihedral. Move up and step onto the face, and follow the bolts up, staying on the right side of them.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 chain anchor just off the top of the face. We recommend a 60m rope for this route.

Photos

The new Rolofson book say that if you follow this route up on the right of the bolts (kind of using the arete) then it goes at 5.9. If, on the other hand, you climb directly up the bolt line its a 5.10a/b. The route is called Mosquito Burrito (I think). Either way, it's a great climb and harder than 5.8. I found myself edging to the right (easier 5.9 territory) and would agree with the 9 grade. Jan 1, 2001
Again what is up with the undergrading at this site? At the very least, even by Eldo standards this is 5.9. Very few 5.8 leaders will hike up the first 10 feet of this route without trouble. After the start, the grade is much more reasonable. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
 
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
 
First, would you add your name? It's a lot better to know who I'm talking to. I'm not sure what it's rated in the new book, but it's "severely" slabby. The moves take a little bit to figure out, but you could basically take a nap up there on any of the moves - it's so flat. Jan 1, 2001
The 5.8 rating for this climb is right on. If anything, it is easier than 5.8. Jun 26, 2001
Actually, it feels like 4th class...except if you follow the bolt line and keep your hands/feet off anything big, then it feels like 10a. I would NOT call this a 'good beginner's lead' though since a bit of technique is required, including keeping the rope from behind your legs (a common beginner mistake). Any fall on the 'lower angle slab', especially w/o a helmet, could be fatal. Mar 27, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Pulling direct through the overhang Right of the bolts was a 5.10a power move. The guys on this prior to me called this a boulder-problem variation.

Coming in from the left on the start felt about 5.8. For my own part, I got on the route and was amazed at the friction I was getting on the smears- it is some of the best around!

As for this being a great beginner lead, I've taught literally 100's of people to climb... I am used to beginners leading. I put a novice leader on it last night (a 5.9+ climber) who on-sighted the climb as one of his first-ever leads. There seems to be very little chance or fear of serious consequence, even if the leader fails on the route at any point.

The bolts are spaced so close he could have Z-clipped, so it seams reasonably safe. I did yell at him twice about getting his feet in the rope (he immediately moved both times). Seems about par for the course.

I had not read these comments prior to climbing the route and I consider my opinions to be formed on my own. Jun 7, 2002
The rating pretty much depends on the line you decide to take and how much of the seam you decide to use. My buddy thought the 10a cruxes were near the last bolt and just below the ledge based on the line he took. Based on what I did I thought it was 9+ish, just below the ledge.It's all a matter of degrees. Oct 24, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
These anchors are starting to wear down. Until they get switched it is certainly prudent to TR or lower through your own gear and rap off the anchor when finished. Mar 11, 2003
I am new to this site and am somewhat confused as to what people mean by "a great beginner lead". I am what I consider to be a beginning leader. Mosquito Burrito was my third lead ever and my first 5.8. This climb was a blast. I found the move from the second to the third bolt to be thought provoking. I needed my left foot to be where my right one was, and spent some time figuring out how I was going to do this. The foothold was there but too small for me to match. I have followed at higher levels and am not sure I would have had the confidence to lead this pitch if I had not done so. The climb is well protected once you clip into the second bolt and bolts are close enough together to give beginning leaders the mental strengh to reach the top. Apr 19, 2003
Great Climb. First few moves felt like a 5.9 to me !!! May 8, 2003
Matt Chan
Boulder
 
Matt Chan   Boulder
 
Yep, I'm jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a 5.9 due to the thin moves. After a couple trips up and knowing where the friction lies and the crimps hide, one could argue an 8+ rating. For the onsight though, I'm sticking with .9. Fun route, nonetheless. Jun 26, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Just a fun route. Go do it if in the area. You can certainly make it harder or easier depending on the exact line. If you use the left dihedral to help with the first moves it is a lot easier. If you use the right open corner as you move higher, again much easier. I stuck to following the bolts fairly directly though was forced to move somewhat right of the bolts as i got higher before the big ledge in the middle as i am still fairly new leader. For me felt like a challenging 5.8. but very fun. Just take your time and you will find what you need. Jun 27, 2004
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.9-
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.9-
This route is awesome. It's a pretty sustained fun climb. The crux is definitely towards the bottom, but easily gotten past. I didn't notice that the anchor was wearing down. It's possible I just looked over it, but could it be that it was fixed? Jul 3, 2006
Dave Stewart
Boulder, CO
Dave Stewart   Boulder, CO
I climbed this today, mainly because I saw a bail 'biner on the 5th (or 6th or 4th?) bolt. Booty! If it is yours, and you can identify it, you can have it back. Aug 8, 2006
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Good climb to practice foot work. Definitely more difficult towards the bottom, but the 8 rating is spot on. Aug 13, 2006
Great route. The Crux is definitely at the beginning. I made the mistake of using the dihedral crack on the left at first and had to downclimb to reach the bolt I missed. Other than that, the route is great! and the anchor at the top is a little rusted, but definitely in good enough condition. Pretty sustained after the beginning. Mar 6, 2007
Rockfall warning! Beware of rock fall at the base of this climb. Sitting on the rock bench, my partner and I barely avoided disaster as several large (50-60 lbs) rock pummeled this area seemingly spontaneously from just right of the anchor. Fortunately no one was hurt, but several of the rocks were definitely widow makers. There was no wind or rain at the time and no one else was around so I have to assume a fair amount of instability above this climb. Use caution!!! May 14, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently.

Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspective of what a consensus 10a slab feels like, go do Bolting for Glory, in Eldo.

For beginning leaders, the only clip that concerns me is the second one above the opening roof. It's not a difficult clip, although the feet might feel insecure for a new leader, and blowing it would land you on the low angle slab below. That could be an ankle breaker. Once that bolt is clipped, the rest of the route is "well" protected and enjoyable. Oct 12, 2007
D. Shaw
  5.10a PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.10a PG13
Ratings are subjective, naturally, and depend on the exact line you choose, your height, etc. But a 5.8 leader would not be happy with a 5.8 rating, I suspect. Definitely harder than the "Bowling ball and chain" route, which is supposedly 10a, but nowhere near as hard as "Splitting Hares," also supposedly 10a/b. Very fun pitch, worth doing, no matter what it is rated. Oct 7, 2008
djoseph
 
djoseph  
 
What a great climb! Commenting here in part to say that I'm surprised at the 9+ ratings that this is receiving. I'd suggest 8+ ... perhaps 9- at most. To compare to some nearby climbs across the creek at Watermark, it seems to be harder than Road to Isengard (5.8) but slightly easier than The Memory of Trees (5.9). Apr 25, 2009
Hamlet73
Boulder, CO
 
Hamlet73   Boulder, CO
 
I think the 5.9 rating is if you stay left and not use the right crack.

Then it becomes more delicate and extremely enjoyable. Jun 22, 2009
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.8+
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.8+
Climbed it yesterday on a beautiful, busy day. We got blown off a couple of harder climbs earlier, and I 'd always wanted to do it. Quality route; 5.8- use caution at the second clip. Really nice slab of rock with some great edges. The anchors may be due for some retrofitting. They are starting to look a little dated. Good lead to start to regain some confidence. May 9, 2011
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.8+
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
  5.8+
Could use some new anchors soon. I would recommend rapping off. Jun 2, 2011
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
  5.9
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
  5.9
I'd vote for a 5.9 if you go straight up the bolt line. The problem is that you can cheat too easily which downgrades the climb quite a bit. Sep 6, 2012
We climbed it today with a 50m rope. The rope is long enough but donĀ“t forget to tie the rope to something. Aug 15, 2013
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8+
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.8+
This one was a little weird for me. It definitely depends on the line you take, and the line I took was probably a stiff 8+, maybe a 9-. That said, I think conditions play a role. We climbed it on a cold windy day, and numb hands definitely spice it up a little. On a warmer day, I could definitely see this going at 8. If you're comfortable on good friction and small seams for feet, then this route is pretty killer. If you're just breaking into 5.8, then this may not be the route for you Nov 18, 2013
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I'll jump on the comments bandwagon.... With that said, the crack feature is at most 2-ft to the right of the bolt line, which is HARDLY off route. Unless you have the reach of an infant, it would be assinine to call it off-route. By off-routing the crack, you've turned a quite enjoyable climb into an eliminate, and that BS only flies at Morrison. The crack is on. We could come up with every variation under the sun by saying, "it's 5.XX if you ignore this and 5.XX if you don't use that." Heck, you could call it 5.14 if you ignore all positive hands and feet and just use smears and slopers using nothing but vaseline for your hands in place of chalk. Apr 30, 2014
On high traffic routes, the best solution is to use easily replaceable hardware such as two quicklinks or a quicklink and a rappel ring per bolt. Using hangers with rings means that when the rings wear you have to replace the entire hanger. That's not too difficult for wedge bolts as long as the threads on the end of the bolt are fine, but this can be a problem with Powers 5-piece bolts where it is difficult to get the correct torque on the bolts when re-tightening them. Feb 21, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.10a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10a
Bruce, it is simply not true that you have to replace the whole hanger when the ring wears out on a Fixe rap hanger. The hanger has enough room to add quicklinks with chains or winch hooks. I did this on the "Other One" at Sport Park.

As for as this climb is concerned, I don't wander out right of the bolts on the line of least resistance, but rather climb straight up the face slightly left of the lower bolts & then right along the bolts. This makes for a nice 5.10a. The line of least resistance is 5.9. Because the route is closely bolted, there is no intimidation factor. This explains the MP consensus 5.8 rating to a large extent. Aug 11, 2017
Mark,

Sure, if you want a bunch of crap cluttering up the hanger, you don't need to replace the ring, but why put yourself in that situation in the first place? Just use replaceable hardware to begin with. Aug 11, 2017

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