Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Vernon Stiefel
Page Views: 119 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is a fun route, with a definite crux and some short moderate runouts. It was done on TR to clean it, then lead FFA in the rain, thus the name. This route lies on the roof just off the ground to the right of "Oil Pan Hook Shot." Go up into a steep corner, then through the roof on a 18" section of handcrack and a finger lock out to the left. The crux is 5.10. An 'eliminate' problem avoiding the lefthand side and lefthand finger crack through the roof can also be done and probably comes in at around 5.11-- with the gear being difficult to get before the hard climbing starts.

Once through the roof, pulling the lip on solid incuts, proceed more or less straight up and then slightly left to join the arete, then finish on the arete left at the anchors of the nearby moderate sport climb. There are stopper placements near the top that make clipping the last bolt of the sport route you converge with unnecessary, even in the rain. Top out or clip the anchors of the sport route.

A reasonably fun route with a fun crux -- gymnastic if you eliminate the lefthand wall, but fun either way. Not long or sustained enough to merit more stars.

Protection

A few nuts and some cams to 3". Aliens are nice for odd shallow cracks.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments