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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio, 2003
Page Views: 906 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route lies on the westface of the lower Bowling Alley Rock (to the left and around the corner of "Mosquito Burrito"). Gain a ledge and place gear in the lower crack, move up on good holds and finger jams to a tricky move to gain a ledge. Place small gear and fire up the thin crack to a wide(big hands)crack. Power up the crack and gain the slab. Belay from good gear or walk off to the east. There was no sign of any activity on this crack and we removed a large, loose flake/block at the crux. A good little crack with great moves.

Protection

Small RPs and Friends to 3.5. Walk off the backside of the rock. A good anchor can be set on the slab above the crack.

Photos

More like 1.5 stars. TB acurately describes the pitch's strengths and weaknesses. Jul 16, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
10 or 10+ sounds about right. It was pretty dirty and needed a good cleaning. For lack of a brush, I gave it a poor cleaning with my hands while on lead. The moves are actually pretty good and quite fun. The detractors of this climb are the modest length, the ledge at mid-height that breaks up the climbing, and the relatively dirty nature of the climb (smears are scaley and lichenous). The last of these is mitigated somewhat after the most recent set of ascents, but the route still needs a good brushing.

Anyway, it deserves some more cleaning and some more ascents. Apr 24, 2008