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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Alber, May 1998.
Page Views: 1,729 total · 9/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Just right of "Frothing Green" is "Next to Nothing".

A pumpy line with three distinct cruxes, each successively harder than the last. The first crux is 11d, the next 12a, and the last 12b. Involves intricate stemming and lunging and some significant power at the last crux to avoid the barn door effect.

There is a 2nd pitch.

Per Aeon Aki: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

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J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12b
Super fun route. Very fun stemming section down low to cruxy little boulder problem on nice stone. Not sure I agree with Tony about the grade comparison between this and Meteor Rhoadblock because I came much closer to falling on Meteor than this, which leads me to believe that they are reasonably similar in grade, but I guess YMMV. Jul 20, 2017
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Burly little crux section that I thought was quite hard for 12b. The holds are bad. I didn't realize that there was even a second pitch which I did all in one with a 60 meter rope. Although, pitch 2 is a pile of choss, especially the licheny dirty slab at the top that has a sketchy move getting to the anchors. Do the first pitch, and clip chains to the right once you reach the ledge.... Apr 4, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b/c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b/c
I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b. Mar 5, 2013
Aeon Aki    
 
The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch. Apr 9, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12b
12b maybe, yes...But if this is 5.12b, how can Meteor Roadblock be 12a/b there is a relative mile of difficulty between them. I suggest that this route is the more honestly graded of the two. Sep 6, 2005
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux. Oct 27, 2003

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