Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87?
Page Views: 3,364 total · 20/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 3, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with Sun Dancer, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall. From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.

There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral. We started up the right side of the fin. Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb). Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck). We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under Sun Dancer. From this ledge, either continue up Sun Dancer or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent. Use two ropes to rappel back down.


Set of stoppers, hexes, and cams to a #3.5 Camalot. You will need gear for the anchor, and then can traverse to a pair of rap bolts.


Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87. Mar 18, 2007
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
I would break this climb into two pitches or suffer heinous rope drag. Otherwise, fun climb. Get on it! Sep 13, 2013
Alex Garhart
Alex Garhart  
With proper use of runners, this is a nice long pitch with little rope drag. 8-10 shoulder length runners would do it. Sep 14, 2013
George W  
Good enough of a climb. Watch for loose rock, or pummel your belayer. If you don't climb Sun Dancer (which requires two ropes to rappel), you can do two rappels down Sweet Sunday Serenade with a 70m (eye bolts on top, and three bolts with chains and an old locker down low).

Also, rope drag can be mitigated to do this in one long pitch, but it requires running it out over easy terrain that would result in decking on one of the manly large ledges. Of course, you'd probably deck if you broke it in 2 pitches, but at least your belayer will be closer. Nov 9, 2015
If anyone climbs this and finds a stuck rope, it was stuck on 10/9. PM me. Oct 10, 2016
Jon Woodward
Somerville, MA
Jon Woodward   Somerville, MA
The "pine tree" at the base is now a pine stump. Mar 21, 2018