Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunday Wall

2-fer T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antlers on a Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arch Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginner's Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dynamite T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bridge of Air T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Beautician T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Catch a Wave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dike Arch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike Pinch T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Juan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dreams of Far Away Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Echoes T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fearless First S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Exposure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Motion Fascination T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Napa Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napa Valley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Optical Illusions S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Overlap T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
People are Poodles Too. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pillar 2a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Porticullis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R-Tree It T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Hangers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Right of Trash Can Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silently Indirect T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Simple Mind S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Bolt Seam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smooth Reach T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeple, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sun Dancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three's Company T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree It T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Pillar T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Reach T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Upper Deck 1 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
Upper Deck 2 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87?
Page Views: 3,074 total · 20/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 3, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with Sun Dancer, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall. From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.

There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral. We started up the right side of the fin. Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb). Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck). We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under Sun Dancer. From this ledge, either continue up Sun Dancer or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent. Use two ropes to rappel back down.

Protection

Set of stoppers, hexes, and cams to a #3.5 Camalot. You will need gear for the anchor, and then can traverse to a pair of rap bolts.

Photos

If anyone climbs this and finds a stuck rope, it was stuck on 10/9. PM me. Oct 10, 2016
George W  
 
Good enough of a climb. Watch for loose rock, or pummel your belayer. If you don't climb Sun Dancer (which requires two ropes to rappel), you can do two rappels down Sweet Sunday Serenade with a 70m (eye bolts on top, and three bolts with chains and an old locker down low).

Also, rope drag can be mitigated to do this in one long pitch, but it requires running it out over easy terrain that would result in decking on one of the manly large ledges. Of course, you'd probably deck if you broke it in 2 pitches, but at least your belayer will be closer. Nov 9, 2015
Alex Garhart
  5.6
Alex Garhart  
  5.6
With proper use of runners, this is a nice long pitch with little rope drag. 8-10 shoulder length runners would do it. Sep 14, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
I would break this climb into two pitches or suffer heinous rope drag. Otherwise, fun climb. Get on it! Sep 13, 2013
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87. Mar 18, 2007

More About Standard Route

Printer-Friendly Guide