Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87?
Page Views: 4,107 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 3, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with Sun Dancer, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall. From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.

There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral. We started up the right side of the fin. Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb). Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck). We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under Sun Dancer. From this ledge, either continue up Sun Dancer or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent. Use two ropes to rappel back down.

Location

Per TrevorRoulstin: we found the base of this climb about forty feet climber's left and uphill from the start of SSS.

Protection

A set of stoppers, hexes, and cams to a #3.5 Camalot. You will need gear for the anchor, and then can traverse to a pair of rap bolts.

Photos