Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 9/87
Page Views: 359 total · 2/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

The crux is right off the ground pulling a face move to reach the top of a small pillar. Continue up the crack system to a gully, continue about 20 feet up the gully to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This is located right where the trail meets the wall about 15 feet right of Don Juan.

Protection

Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces.

Photos

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Really fun, bouldering style start...the first 30-ish feet are definitely the highlight of the climb. Sep 24, 2012
Just an itsy bitsy devious.... Jan 7, 2013
Andy Bowen
Grand Junction, CO
Andy Bowen   Grand Junction, CO
Yeah, just that one crux right off the ground...? Ok, my two cents.... Climbed fine for 10 feet, "bouldery start" I guess, then the grade becomes something else, or maybe it is just Unaweep granite. I have climbed for a while now and never had a 5.8+ present that many crimps (maybe I was blind to the jugs?) and big friction moves. Topped off with a "should I try this left line to the anchors or make a huge move over to them? Huge move on right gets pro, the sloping left gets nada...?"
By standard rack, they must have meant lots of smalls. More than one, 0.3, 0.2 Camalots or TCU equivalent are great. The last, smaller than they mention, piece before the end of the 20 foot crack is important... I didn't have one...
I already admitted it may be the Unaweep Granite, so hold off on the manly jokes. I really just wanted to help the next guy/gal with what to expect. DO IT, it is fun, but... 1987 5.8+, is a different sort of grade, the system has gone through a few changes in the last 30 years. This climb felt very tough for the grade. I have noticed this to be common on many older climbs throughout the granite. This one just forced my hand to comment on, haha.
Consistent grades in Unaweep granite? No. This should at least make anyone a little better by the end of the trip. :) Sep 11, 2015