Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Andy Petefish, KC Baum, and Scott Croll, 3/88
Page Views: 792 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Feb 1, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up the corner on the left and move right to the first bolt. Continue up to a horizontal crack and protect with a TCU. Then climb up and mantle to a good stance on a dike. Protect with a small TCU and continue up past a few bolts making a difficult mantle to another dike. Continue up the slab past bolts to the top, breaking left at the last bolt.

The beginning of this climb is a little contrived, but the top half is excellent. The climbing is on really nicely featured stone.

Location

Located on the detached pillar just right of Sweet Sunday Serenade. There are three routes with bolts up this. This climb is the middle one. Also, it is the one with homemade hangers.

Rap from two bolt anchor.

Protection

Bolts plus a few small TCUs (maybe 0 and 1 Metolius?).

Photos

Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
Sounds like this is the same thing as the route named "Pillar 2"? Dec 4, 2013
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
  5.11b/c
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
  5.11b/c
I think a BD 0.3, 0.4 Camalot would fit in the horizontal, as well. Fairly generous finger-size crack. Some good crimping and pressing on this one. Old school classic. Sep 27, 2016