Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 38.81832, -108.60765
FA: ??? equipped in 2017 by Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 996 total · 13/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 30, 2019
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


21 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Stickclip the first bolt or use small cams in the crack at the start and make difficult moves past the first bolt. Difficulties gradually ease as you pass the next four bolts of climbing. From there, the angle lessens, and you can finish by going left to the top of Bandito or the anchor up and right.

I bolted this in 2017 but had previously led it on trad gear. I suspect, and have heard rumors of, at least one other person possibly climbing this on gear. While you can fiddle in gear, I felt like it was much better as a mixed climb with a bolted start, and at the time I bolted it, I had not heard or or seen evidence of any other ascents and despite climbing extensively at the area and on the route for years. That being said, I recognize it's possible in the often shady history of Unaweep that it may have been climbed and led and the chalk washed away and would completely honor a prior ascentionist.

Location Suggest change

Just right of the difficult start of Bandito is El Guapo, another route with a more difficult start and 5 bolts protecting the bottom of the route.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and a light rack for the top of small to medium cams and stoppers.

Photos

loading