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Routes in Sunday Wall

2-fer T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antlers on a Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arch Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginner's Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dynamite T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bridge of Air T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Beautician T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Catch a Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dike Arch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike Pinch T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don Juan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dreams of Far Away Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Echoes T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fearless First S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Exposure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Motion Fascination T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Napa Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napa Valley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Optical Illusions S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overlap T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
People are Poodles Too. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pillar 2a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Porticullis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R-Tree It T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Hangers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Right of Trash Can Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silently Indirect T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Simple Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Bolt Seam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Campaign T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smooth Reach T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeple, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strawberry Jacuzzi, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sun Dancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three's Company T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree It T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Pillar T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Reach T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Upper Deck 1 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
Upper Deck 2 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 124 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Dec 8, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Scramble up 5 feet past a tree to reach a good finger crack. Make a tough transition into an offwidth pod (5.10), then easy climbing leads to the obvious 5' roof. Turn the roof on the left side using a good crack and some cool features on the left wall (5.10 crux), then easy ground leads you to a ledge at 50 feet.

Build an anchor to belay from in the acute corner just below the big ledge. Rope drag is kind of unavoidable if you try to TR it with a belay at the bottom....belay from the top instead. The last person to do the climb will need to traverse right to reach the bolted anchor on People are Poodles Too. and then rappel (3rd Class, but very exposed).

This is a pretty good climb! It is definitely better than Poodles next door, which seems to get much more traffic. The cracks and gear are good, the rock is solid, the bottom has some neat jamming, and the crux roof is really cool. It has very Yosemite-esque climbing. The anchor situation is a bit of a bummer. A community-minded individual could do a service by adding an anchor to this one.

Location

This route is ~30 feet left of People are Poodles Too, behind some trees. There is a sizable tree about 3 feet up the cliff that you sort of climb through to reach the start of the crack. The big roof that you turn on the left side should be obvious ~30 feet above you.

Protection

A single set of cams will get you up it. Having doubles of purple, green, and red C4s wouldn't hurt. 1 #4 is nice to have; I didn't use a #3.

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