Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: KC Baum , Matt Simpson, and Scott Trainer, 8/87
Page Views: 332 total · 2/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start in the nice, left-facing dihedral atop a clean gently sloping granite slab. Climb the dihedral using finger/layback moves and pull up onto the obvious ledge to the right. Move right along the ledge, and then climb a short offwidth through hands up to the anchors (two bolts).

This route was surprisingly nice. Could make a nice warmup before doing something longer on the wall.

Location

This is located about 40 feet right of Bandito in a short but beautiful-looking, left-facing dihedral. The anchors are visible from below.

Protection

Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces. A #4 Camalot or equivalent may be useful.

Photos

Crisco Jackass
Grand Junction, CO
Crisco Jackass   Grand Junction, CO
Three's Company indeed, OW crux (for me) felt like Jack Tripper trying to cop a feel off of Chrissy... damn, almost got it!

That finger start feels as aesthetic as it looks, really fun climb. Apr 22, 2009
Nate Kirchhofer
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
Nate Kirchhofer   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8
I believe that the medium-sized rock at the base of the widest part of the offwidth in the photo has fallen, making the first moves in the crack a little more reachy. A #3 or #4 Camalot will be useful.

Wonderful route! Jun 4, 2010
Agreed that rock is gone, and I am not tall enough to make the reach to the jam, so it requires some a little chimney technique to get into the wide part. Apr 26, 2011
Cragophilia
  5.8+
Cragophilia  
  5.8+
I'm not sure which rock you guys are talking about. I was there this weekend, and all the rocks in this photo seem to still be there. I wasn't looking for that while I was there, but the rocks in my photos seem to match this one perfectly. May 16, 2011
Mike Wallace
Summit County, CO
Mike Wallace   Summit County, CO
Fun route. Skipped the #4 Camalot (take it anyway) and placed a #12 stopper in the pinch at the top of the OW. Nice slabbing (feet) to the right. Great warm-up. Jun 2, 2011