Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Chris Righter with help from RP, BG, and JP|
|Page Views:||1,718 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||chris righter on Jun 23, 2012|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. 5.8. Start on Bantido, and when you get to the anchor, keep going up and to the right into dihedral that finishes on a ledge. There is an anchor on the top left of the dihedral that is used for rappelling on the way down. From the top of the ledge, you will need to 2nd class past some bushes up and left to a dihedral with twin cracks. You will want to put your anchor here. Once you get through all this BS, everything else will be worth it. 200 feet.
P2. 5.12. Start up the dihedral into a right-arching crack. Clip one bolt, then go straight up the crack system with 5.11- climbing to a ledge. Clip a bolt and then bust the 5.12 crux to another bolt, then trend right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. (At the first bolt down low on the route, if you keep going right on the arching crack, there is a bolt with a fixed draw on it. This is Smear Campaign 5.13+. So be sure to go straight up after clipping the first bolt.) 150 feet.
P3. 5.12-. Face climb with bolts to steep twin cracks that has a 11+/12- crux, then continue up the crack system to a ledge. 100 feet.
P4. 5.10. Go up the right-facing dihedral to the left onto a ledge that has a one bolt anchor that is supplemented by a finger-sized cam. A short pitch has to be done to aleviate rope drag. 50 feet.
P5. 5.11+. Go up the left-facing dihedral to the top of a pillar, then go up to a small ledge with a dihedral. From here, you want clip a bolt and step right into another crack system that will take you all the way to the top that finishes on a giant ledge. 120 feet.