Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunday Wall

2-fer T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antlers on a Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arch Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginner's Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dynamite T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bridge of Air T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Beautician T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Catch a Wave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dike Arch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike Pinch T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Juan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dreams of Far Away Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Echoes T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fearless First S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Exposure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Motion Fascination T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Napa Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napa Valley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Optical Illusions S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Overlap T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
People are Poodles Too. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pillar 2a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Porticullis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R-Tree It T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Hangers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Right of Trash Can Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silently Indirect T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Simple Mind S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Bolt Seam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Campaign T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smooth Reach T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeple, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strawberry Jacuzzi, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sun Dancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three's Company T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree It T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Pillar T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Reach T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Upper Deck 1 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
Upper Deck 2 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chris Righter with help from RP, BG, and JP
Page Views: 1,377 total · 18/month
Shared By: chris righter on Jun 23, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a 5 pitch route located to the left of Echoes. It is a combination of crack and face climbing protected by gear and bolts.

P1. 5.8. Start on Bantido, and when you get to the anchor, keep going up and to the right into dihedral that finishes on a ledge. There is an anchor on the top left of the dihedral that is used for rappelling on the way down. From the top of the ledge, you will need to 2nd class past some bushes up and left to a dihedral with twin cracks. You will want to put your anchor here. Once you get through all this BS, everything else will be worth it. 200 feet.

P2. 5.12. Start up the dihedral into a right-arching crack. Clip one bolt, then go straight up the crack system with 5.11- climbing to a ledge. Clip a bolt and then bust the 5.12 crux to another bolt, then trend right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. (At the first bolt down low on the route, if you keep going right on the arching crack, there is a bolt with a fixed draw on it. This is Smear Campaign 5.13+.  So be sure to go straight up after clipping the first bolt.) 150 feet.

P3. 5.12-. Face climb with bolts to steep twin cracks that has a 11+/12- crux, then continue up the crack system to a ledge. 100 feet.

P4. 5.10. Go up the right-facing dihedral to the left onto a ledge that has a one bolt anchor that is supplemented by a finger-sized cam. A short pitch has to be done to aleviate rope drag. 50 feet.

P5. 5.11+. Go up the left-facing dihedral to the top of a pillar, then go up to a small ledge with a dihedral. From here, you want clip a bolt and step right into another crack system that will take you all the way to the top that finishes on a giant ledge. 120 feet.

Location

You can rap the route with a single 70m. If you have a 60m, you will need 2 ropes. The first rap is short, about 50 feet to a small ledge that is not on the route. After that, you are rappelling from the anchors on the route.

Protection

One green and red c3, singles #0.3-0.75 Camalots, doubles #1-3 Camalots, medium stoppers, 10 draws, and 5 runners.

Photos

This is a good route. I thought it was similar in difficulty to Echoes, perhaps just a touch easier. Doing Echoes and this route makes for a nice day of climbing. Who knew?...there is some good climbing in Unaweep after all! Mar 20, 2015
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
  5.12c
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
  5.12c
Nice route! Hopefully it will see some traffic. I would put it around 12c (I fell a LOT), agreeing with Josh's evaluation. Small people: bring a very long, very stiff draw to clip! Both 5.12 pitches have a dangerous fall-to-ledge potential because the bolts are extremely difficult to reach and thus must be clipped mid-crux. The second 5.12 pitch (it is NOT 5.11+/5.12- if you are little) can take a very small wire to protect before the first bolt off the anchor. May 22, 2017

More About The Steeple

Printer-Friendly