Type: Sport
FA: Andy Petefish
Page Views: 1,906 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Excellent sport climb! Start just right or East of Sweet Sunday Serenade (5.9) and just left of a pillar with a bolted route on it.

Start in a short 5.7 hand crack to gain a good ledge, the business starts here. Climb thin face past 5 bolts up to a sloping bulge, clip the bolt above the lip of the bulge and make difficult and awkward moves up and past the next bolt (crux). TCUs protect the climbing above last bolt. End on a good ledge with a bolted rappel anchor. 140 feet.

Descent: Rap 60 feet into the notch and downclimb class 3 to the ground or rap with two ropes.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 small TCUs.

Photos

Thomas Jensen
Phoenixville, PA
Thomas Jensen   Phoenixville, PA
Really a fun route as I recall. Climbed it 12 years ago but it still sticks out in my mind for the mantle moves. Sep 6, 2008
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
As of 3/12/10, this route has been updated with new equipment courtesy of the ASCA. Apr 1, 2010
chris righter
  5.11
chris righter  
  5.11
You can link this pitch with Satisfaction Guaranteed (the 5.9+ crack that starts to the left of ledge at anchors) for a fun full 70 m pitch. Apr 14, 2011
Matt Rauen  
 
Great climb. Probably not 5.11a until the top just before the last bolt/crux. Top is quite the runout to the chains but typical as mentioned for climbs in the area. The chains aren't visible from the last bolt, so don't lose hope, and hang on until the anchors. A 70m rope is just enough for a double rope rappel from the anchors. We salvaged a quickdraw on the last bolt, so message me if it's your orphan. Jul 31, 2014
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
My gear / climbing beta: only clip the bolts until the last bolt, then climb up and right aways to find a crack that takes bomber 0.4 Camalot, then back left to rejoin Sweet Sunday Serenade near the very top, where I put in a bomber 0.5 (and could have put in other gear there). The climbing was easy above the last bolt and not super-runout, although you're going aways on moderate terrain. Clipping the first bolt, which I didn't do as we yo-yo'd, seemed heads-up / maybe dangerous--otherwise the bolting seemed OK. May 22, 2017